The Accursed Mountains, also called the Albanian Alps, are a mountain range in coastal Southeast Europe near the Adriatic Sea. This range is the southernmost part of the Dinaric Alps, which stretch for about 1,000 kilometers (621 miles) from northern Albania to western Kosovo and northeastern Montenegro. Maja Jezercë, which reaches 2,694 meters (8,839 feet), is the highest peak in the Accursed Mountains and the entire Dinaric Alps. It is also the fifth tallest mountain in Albania. The range includes Zla Kolata, standing at 2,534 meters (8,314 feet), the tallest mountain in Montenegro, and Gjeravica, which rises to 2,656 meters (8,714 feet), the second tallest mountain in Kosovo. In 2009, scientists discovered one of the southernmost glacial areas in Europe within the Albanian part of the range.

Name

The name "Accursed Mountains" has no agreed-upon origin. One local story says the devil ran away from hell and formed the sharp, icy rock formations in one day of trickery. Another story claims a woman cursed the mountains when she and her children walked through them on an extremely hot day and could not find water. A third story says Slavic soldiers named the mountains because they had great difficulty walking through them.

The Albanian name "Bjeshkët e Nemuna" and the Serbo-Croatian name "Prokletije" both mean "The Accursed Mountains."

Location and relief

The Accursed Mountains, the southern part of the Dinaric Alps, extend over 60 kilometers (40 miles) from Lake Skadar along the Montenegrin–Albanian border in the southwest to Kosovo in the northeast. These points are located at 42°45' and 42°15' N in the western Balkans' Mediterranean region. The southern edge of the Accursed Mountains is marked by the Drin River and its tributary, the Valbona. In a broader sense, the Accursed Mountains also include mountain ranges near Mitrovica, such as the Hajla and Mokna massifs. Some experts, however, consider the Lim River as the northern boundary of the Accursed Mountains in geological terms.

Starting from Lake Skadar, the mountains extend northeast along the Cem River, then curve slightly east toward the Gjeravica summit above the western Kosovo (450m) basin. From there, the Accursed Mountains turn north over the Bogićevica massif and Čakor pass, continuing with another row of mountains. The Accursed Mountains end in the upper Ibar River valley near Mitrovica, just after the Suva Planina (1,750 meters (5,740 feet)) massif, which surrounds the Dukagjin basin from the north and northwest.

The Accursed Mountains are culturally and socially diverse, with many tribes living in the region as sheep herders. Names of various Albanian tribes (Hoti, Gruda, Kelmendi, Kastrati, Dukagjini, Shkreli, Shala, Nikaj, Krasniqi, Gashi, Kuči, and Rugova) refer to their locations within the range.

On the Montenegrin side of this mountain range, a rock climbing route called "Prvo Koplje" is located on the rock wall of the summit Koplje. This route is the most challenging in the area. The first ascent of the route was completed by alpinists Žarko Gostović (1950–2019) from Skopje, North Macedonia, and Ante Bedalov (1952–1974) from Kaštel Kambelovac, Croatia. They began climbing on June 15, 1972, and finished on June 18, 1972, taking three and a half days to complete the first ascent.

Geology

The Accursed Mountains are a typical Dinaric karst high mountain range with a steep topography and glacial features. The greatest height differences of 1,800 metres (5,900 ft) occur in the Valbona, Grbaja, Ropojani, and Cem valleys. Pointed peaks are common in the western and central parts of the range, where overhanging walls and ridges form steep slopes. The eastern mountains are less rugged, with smaller height differences. The valleys show effects of Pleistocene glaciation. Most of the area was shaped by glaciers, with karstic features in the western sections.

The range formed due to the folding caused by the collision of the African and Eurasian plates. These mountains have more glacial evidence than any other place in the Balkans. After the Alps, they are the most glaciated in Europe south of the Scandinavian ice sheet. The mountains have steep limestone slopes and many karst features. The Accursed Mountains are large, rugged, and difficult to navigate. They are one of the few mountain ranges in Europe that have not been fully explored.

In some areas, the Accursed Mountains run nearly parallel to the Šar Mountains in North Macedonia, Albania, and Kosovo. This tectonic movement created the range’s zig-zag shape and its curve from the typical Dinaric northwestern–southeastern direction toward the northeastern one. In the western and central parts, the mountains are mainly made of Mesozoic limestones and dolomites from the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods. In the eastern sections, rocks from the late Palaeozoic and Triassic periods, medium-Triassic volcanic rocks, and Jurassic metamorphic rocks are also present.

The Kalktafel area has deep valleys in various rock blocks, including those north of Përroi i Thatë, south of Biga e Gimajive, between Shala and Valbona valleys, in the Maja e Hekurave massif, on the Maja e Kolats plateau north of Valbona, and near Shkëlzen northeast of Valbona. Glaciers formed these valleys, creating steep walls and hollows up to 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) deep. The south wall of the Maja Harapit is 800 metres (2,600 ft) high, making it the highest rock face on the Balkan Peninsula.

Although some research considers the Accursed Mountains a separate chain, they are still regarded as the highest part of the Dinaric areas. They are connected to the Dinaric mountain chain in terms of geology, shape, and cultural history.

The Accursed Mountains consist of many large sections or mountain massifs, all connected to one another. These include the Popluks group (2,694 m), Shkurt group (2,554 m), Radohimës group (2,570 m), Zaborës e Krasniçës (2,625 m), Bjelic group (2,556 m), Karanfili-Brada group (2,554 m), Rabës group (2,232 m), Ershellit group (2,066 m), Kakinjes group (2,359 m), Shkëlzen group (2,407 m), Bogićevica group (2,533 m), Horolac group (2,199 m), Kershi Kocaj group (2,399 m), Maja e Zezë group (2,400 m), Lumbardhit group (2,522 m), Kopranik group (2,460 m), Strellc group (2,377 m), Gjeravica group (2,656 m), Junik group (2,296 m), Starac-Qokorr group (2,426 m), Hajla group (2,403 m), Stedim-Ahmica group (2,272 m), Zleb-Rusulija group (2,382 m), Mokna group (2,155 m), and Suva Planina group (1,750 m).

Glacial erosion left many features, such as deep river canyons and flat valleys that wind around mountain ridges. The largest canyon is Rugova Canyon, located in Kosovo. It is 25 km (16 mi) long, 1,000 m (3,281 ft) deep, and has steep slopes on both sides. At lower altitudes, valleys create mountain passes and troughs, such as Buni Jezerce in Albania. Buni Jezerce means "Valley of the Lakes" and contains six small glacial lakes, with the largest called the Big Lake of Buni Jezerce.

Canyons in the Accursed Mountains:
• Rugova Canyon
• Deçani Canyon
• Gashi Canyon
• Cemi Canyon

Valleys in the Accursed Mountains:
• Vermosh Valley
• Valbona Valley
• Thethi Valley
• Ropojona Valley
• Gerbja Valley
• Buni Jezerce
• Cemi i Nikçit Valley

Rivers and lakes

The Accursed Mountains have several important rivers. These rivers can be divided into two main groups: those that flow into the Lim River and those that flow into the White Drin River, which later join the Black Drin River at a place called the Drin confluence. The southern and eastern sides of the Accursed Mountains are part of the second group. The Tara and Lim rivers, which are major sources of the Dinaric river system, begin on the northern edges of the Accursed Mountains. The Vërmosh River starts in the northwest part of the mountains in Montenegro, near the border with Albania. As a tributary of the Drina River, the Vërmosh flows into the Danube River and then into the Black Sea. The Lim River flows through Plav Lake. The Ibar River, which begins on the slopes of the Hajla mountain, follows a similar path into the Danube River through the West Morava River in Serbia.

In the southern part of the Accursed Mountains, the Drin River is the most important. It drains much of the surrounding area with its tributaries. Measured from the source of the White Drin River in Radavc to the mouth of the Drin River near Lezha, the Drin River is 335 kilometers (208 miles) long. However, not all parts of the Drin River run near or alongside the Accursed Mountains. One of its tributaries, the Valbona River, flows into the Adriatic Sea, and its eastern tributary is the Gashi River. To the west of the mountains is the Cem River, which drains the northwestern part of the Montenegrin-Albanian border area into the Adriatic Sea. Water levels in the region change because the karst topography allows water to flow underground. Some rivers or streams, like the Përroi i Thatë in Albania, completely dry up during summer droughts. Although the Lumbardhi i Pejës River in Kosovo is short, it is very strong and helped carve the Rugova Canyon.

There are about 20 small alpine lakes formed by glaciers in the Accursed Mountains. Many of these lakes are located in the Bogiçevica border area between Kosovo and Albania and in the Buni i Jezercë trough near the Jezerca and Bojs peaks. Some lakes, such as Lake Liqenat in Kosovo and Hrid Lake in Montenegro, are popular with tourists. Hrid Lake is a good example of a well-preserved glacial landscape. During the Pleistocene period, this area collected ice that fell from surrounding peaks, carrying different types of material with it. Rain and snowmelt washed away smaller rocks, but larger ones remain on the western and southwestern shores of the lake. Hrid Lake is 295 meters (968 feet) long, 110 meters (360 feet) wide, and averages about 5 meters (16 feet) in depth. In addition to rainwater, the lake receives water from sources near its shores. The largest lake is Lake Plav in Montenegro. Located at an altitude of 906 meters (2,972 feet) above sea level in the Plav valley, it lies between the Accursed Mountains and the Visitor range.

Waterfalls are found in some areas of the range. The White Drin Waterfall in Kosovo is 25 meters (82 feet) high. Because it is close to Peja, it is easily reached and visited by many people. The Grunas Waterfall in Albania is 30 meters (98 feet) high and is located in the Theth National Park. The Ali Pasha natural springs in Montenegro, near Gusinje, are a major attraction for the town.

Highest peaks

Mountains higher than 2,600 meters (8,530 feet)

• Maja Jezercë (2,694 meters or 8,839 feet; located in Albania)
• Gjeravica (2,656 meters or 8,714 feet; located in Kosovo)
• Maja Grykat e Hapëta (2,625 meters or 8,612 feet; located in Albania)

Mountains higher than 2,500 meters (8,202 feet)

Mountains higher than 2,400 meters (7,874 feet)

Mountains lower than 2,400 meters (7,874 feet)

Climate

The Accursed Mountains are the wettest area in Europe. In the village of Boga, located in a valley, the yearly rainfall and snowfall total 3,033 mm (119.4 in). In other areas of the region, yearly rainfall and snowfall usually range from 2,000 to 2,500 mm (79 to 98 in). At higher elevations, snow can be found even during summer, except in very dry years.

There are at least five active glaciers in the area that likely formed during the late Holocene period, which is a long time ago. Some glaciers are no longer active and are found between 1,980 and 2,420 meters in height. Deep valleys such as Ropojani, Grbaja, and Valbona were shaped by glaciers during the last ice age. Scientists used detailed maps of land features to identify the locations of glaciers that no longer exist. The longest glacier in Ropojani was 12.5 kilometers (7.8 mi) long and covered 20 square kilometers (7.7 mi²). Other glaciers include Valbona, which was 9.5 kilometers (5.9 mi) long and covered 10.5 square kilometers (4.1 mi²), Grbaja, which was 5 kilometers (3.1 mi) long and covered 6.7 square kilometers (2.6 mi²), and Bogićevića, which was 6 kilometers (3.7 mi) long and covered 6.9 square kilometers (2.7 mi²). In addition, there are about 20 small lakes formed by glaciers, such as the Buni Jezercë group of lakes near Jezerca Peak, Ridsko Lake, Bukumirsko Lake, and Rikavačko Lake.

A recent study by geographers at the University of Manchester discovered four previously unknown glaciers in the Albanian part of the mountain range, located between 1,980 and 2,100 meters in height, near Maja e Jezerces. The largest of these glaciers is currently the size of six football pitches. These glaciers change in size each year based on the amount of snowfall in winter and summer temperatures. Their average total surface area is 5 hectares (0.019 mi²). Scientific models suggest these glaciers need between 4,137 and 5,531 mm (162.9 and 217.8 in) of snowfall each year to balance melting, which would be equivalent to 49.7 to 66.4 meters (163.1 to 217.8 ft) of snow. Much of this snow likely comes from windblown snow and avalanches. Scientists estimate the total snow needed to balance melting could be up to twice the amount from direct rainfall. These glaciers, among the southernmost in Europe, exist at altitudes below the typical snow line, showing how local conditions influence glacier formation. The geographers believe at least eight glaciers were present in nearby mountains during the 19th century, matching the peak of the Little Ice Age in the European Alps.

Flora

The vegetation in the Accursed Mountains is among the most diverse in the Balkan Peninsula and a key area in central Europe for plant life. In the Albanian part alone, 1,611 wild plant species have been identified. As of 2013, 50 species are found only in this region, are rare, or are in danger of disappearing. The southern parts of the mountains have a climate similar to the Mediterranean. Evergreen shrubs grow in deep valleys and sunny slopes, while deciduous shrubs called Shibljak are common in higher valleys. Over 100 medicinal plants grow in the mountains, including species from the Primula, Satureja, and Sideritis genera. Because of its high elevation and unique environment, the area is one of the most important places in the Balkans for plants that survived from ancient glacial periods. Out of 77 such species found in the Balkans, more than 50 live in the Accursed Mountains.

The vegetation levels in the mountains reach the alpine stage, ranging from upland valleys through forest-free alpine and subalpine areas with thin soil and permafrost. Snow is not widespread, but in high altitudes, snow and fern fields can remain during summer on four small glaciers, the highest near Jezerca.

Forests of beech, fir, and silicate spruce dominate the mountain areas. Occasionally, species from northern Europe, such as the Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), are found. The drought-resistant black pine (Pinus nigra) is also common. Aspens (Populus tremula) grow in wet areas alongside mountain maple (Acer pseudoplatanus) and Norway spruce (Picea abies). The Accursed Mountains are one of the southernmost places in Europe where spruce grow. Dense thickets of mountain pine (Pinus mugo) form the "combat zones" of the forest. Conifers like the snakeskin pine (Pinus heldreichii) grow on carbonate rocks, while the Macedonian pine (Pinus peuce) is typical of silicate rocks and part of the region’s unique Balkan flora.

In alpine areas, cushion-sedge and blue grass (Seslerion juncifoliae) grow. On shallow limestone soils, Oxytropidion dinaricae thrives, including the alpine grass krumm, similar to the Alps. Other plants include the Alpine aster (Aster alpinus), edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum), and white mountain avens (Dryas octopetala). These plants are specially adapted to the short growing season, strong sunlight, cold, and thin soil in alpine environments.

The rocky areas of the Accursed Mountains are especially notable for their rare, rich, and unique plant life, including the Tertiary relic Amphoricarpos neumayeri. Many plant species are found only in this area or are mostly located here. A type of plantain (Plantaginaceae) grows in the central mountains as a variant of the alpine Wulfenie, but it does not grow 700 km away. Petasites doerfleri is found only on the Jezerca peaks, and the Albanian lily (Lilium albanicum) and Viola ducagjinica are found only on the Maja Radohimës slope. Viola vilaensis is also notable. Viola chelmea, a violet species, grows on the Montenegrin-Albanian border, especially near Lake Bukumirsko Jezero at 2,100 meters. It is found only in Asia Minor and the Balkans due to its strong rhizome, closed flowers, and lack of foothills. The Accursed Mountains are the only place in Europe where the Tertiary relic Forsythia europaea grows.

Fauna

Large mammal species that were once extinct in other areas live here, including the Eurasian brown bear, grey wolf, golden jackal, red fox, European wildcat, roe deer, fallow deer, red deer, wild boar, and European otter. The very rare Balkan lynx, a type of Eurasian lynx, is mostly found in Theth National Park, where about 20 to 50 individuals still live. However, poaching remains a major threat to their survival. Chamois live in high mountain areas, with about 720 living near the borders of Kosovo and Montenegro. Some people believe the mouflon lived in the Accursed Mountains until World War I, after which they disappeared.

Birds in the area include the golden eagle, snake eagle, honey buzzard, peregrine falcon, capercaillie, rock partridge, scops owl, Eurasian eagle owl, and snow finch. So far, 140 butterfly species have been found, making the Accursed Mountains the area in Europe with the most butterfly diversity.

The rivers are home to an increasing number of marble trout. Amphibians found here include the alpine salamander (which lives in the southernmost part of its range), fire salamander, yellow-bellied toad, and fire-bellied toad. The area has many reptiles and amphibians, such as the fence lizard, green lizard, Greek tortoise, and snakes like true vipers, including the venomous horned viper and adder. The Accursed Mountains are home to one unique lizard species, the Prokletije rock lizard or Dinarolacerta montenegrina, named after the mountain range.

Early climbing

British climbers Sleeman, Elmalie, and Ellwood reached the top of Maja Jezercë on July 26, 1929. Later, Austrian climbers also climbed to the summit. Many explorers and scientists have visited the Accursed Mountains, gathering rocks and other samples to show in museums. Before these climbs, it was thought that the tallest mountain in the range was Shkëlzen, which is 2,407 meters (7,897 feet) high. The next tallest was believed to be Maja Radohimës, at 2,570 meters (8,432 feet). By early summer 1929, Italian surveyors had measured the heights of all the mountain peaks.

National parks

There are three national parks in the Accursed Mountains — one each in Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. Illegal cutting down of trees is a big problem. Some national parks are also affected. During dry summers, forest fires often happen. Large animals like wolves, chamois, foxes, badgers, and wild boar are hunted without considering park boundaries.

In Albania, the new and larger Alps of Albania National Park was created in 2022. It combines the former Theth National Park, Valbona Valley National Park, and Gashi River Strict Nature Reserve. The park covers 86,000 hectares, which is about 330 square miles. Theth National Park was created in 1966 and covered 2,630 hectares, or about 10.2 square miles, along the Thethi River. A major attraction in the park is the Grunas Waterfall. Valbona Valley National Park was created in 1996 and covered 8,000 hectares, or about 31 square miles, including the Valbona Valley and Valbona River.

In Montenegro, the Prokletije National Park was created in 2009 and covers 16,000 hectares, or about 62 square miles. In Kosovo, the Bjeshkët e Nemuna National Park was established in 2012 and covers 50,000 hectares, or about 190 square miles. It includes high alpine areas, the Rugova Canyon, and important rivers. In 1955, Yugoslavia declared part of Maja e Ropës mountain a floral mountain reserve, covering 25 hectares, or about 62 acres, of mainly Macedonian pine, pine, and beech. In the same year, the Kozhnjar area was declared a fauna reserve to protect chamois, covering 161 hectares, or about 400 acres.

As of 2010, Kosovo, Albania, and Montenegro were planning to create another tri-state park in the area called the Balkans Peace Park.

Settlement, economy and transport

The Accursed Mountains are home to Albanians, Montenegrins, Serbs, and Bosniaks, but the area is not very crowded. Some settlements exist at the edges, such as the Albanian village of Koplik and the Montenegrin village of Tuzi near Skadar Lake. In the north, villages like Plav and Gusinje are located in the upper Lim River valley in Montenegro. In the east, Bajram Curri is the main town of the Tropoja district. Nearby cities like Shkodra, Podgorica, Gjakova, and Peja influence the region and are often visited by people from the highlands for tasks like shopping or official business.

Villages in the mountains usually have only a few hundred people. Many are scattered and lack a central area. Among the larger villages are Tamara and Selca, both in the Cem River valley and part of the Kelmend community. A group of eight villages, including Vermosh, has 6,600 people. Tamara is the only place in the central mountains with a secondary school. Tamara and Vermosh share a maternity hospital. Before communism ended, similar facilities existed in the Shala Valley. Many villagers in areas like Boga, Theth, and Valbona live only during summer, as winters cut off the villages for weeks.

In addition to seasonal movement, the area faces a "brain drain," as farming income is low. Many people leave to find work in places like Shkodra, Tirana, or abroad. As fewer people live in remote areas, there are fewer teachers and government workers. Local income comes from farming, illegal logging, and tourism.

In places like Theth, tourism has grown because of hiking. With help from GTZ, 40 private homes were turned into guesthouses or B&Bs. In 2010, there were 130 total beds, 100 more than in 2007. Hiking trails are now marked, and maps and guides are available. From 2006 to 2009, the number of tourists increased from 300 to about 7,500 yearly. Most of these visitors came from other countries. Lakes like Plav and Hrid attract many tourists in summer. Small hydroelectric plants in some villages provide electricity.

The 192 km Peaks of the Balkans Trail connects three countries.

Many villages were settled by the 15th century, and some valleys have been inhabited since the Stone Age. After communism ended, thousands left, reducing the population.

The SH20 road crosses the Accursed Mountains in the Kelmend region of northwestern Albania. It runs from the eastern shore of Lake Scutari near the Han i Hotit border crossing with Montenegro to the Cem River valley. The road was paved and upgraded to European standards between Hani Hotit and Tamare by 2015.

The SH21 road, recently paved, connects Koplik to Boga. The road from Qafa Thores to Theth now has crash barriers and guard rails, but it remains steep and narrow in parts. From Theth, a poor road leads to the Shala Valley Church, and only a walking path follows the river to Shkodra. The SH22 road over Qafa e Morinës near Bajram Curri after Gjakova has been rebuilt. Previously, the only way to cross between Montenegro and Kosovo was through Rugova Canyon, which was dangerous and steep. The Peja–Rožaje highway has improved this. The SH42 road from SH21 to Razem has also been recently rebuilt.

Historically, a trade route between Podgorica and Plav crossed the mountains along the Lim and Cem rivers.