Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea National Park (German: Nationalpark Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer) is a national park located in the Schleswig-Holstein region of the German Wadden Sea. It was created by the legislature of Schleswig-Holstein on October 1, 1985, through the National Park Act passed on July 22, 1985. The park was expanded in 1999. Together with the Lower Saxon Wadden Sea National Park, the Hamburg Wadden Sea National Park, and parts of the Elbe estuary that are not nature reserves, it forms the German portion of the Wadden Sea.

The national park stretches from the German-Danish maritime border in the north to the Elbe estuary in the south. In the North Frisian area, it includes mudflats around geest-based and marsh islands, as well as Halligen (undyked islands). In some places, the mudflats are 40 kilometers wide. Further south, the mudflats contain large sandbanks. In addition to species typical of the entire Wadden Sea, the Schleswig-Holstein portion is known for its large numbers of porpoises, shelducks, and eelgrass.

With an area of 4,410 square kilometers, it is the largest national park in Germany. About 68% of its area is permanently underwater, and 30% is periodically dry. The land portion consists mainly of salt marshes. Since 1990, the national park, including the North Frisian Halligen, has been designated a UNESCO-recognized biosphere reserve. Along with other German and Dutch Wadden Sea areas, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site on June 26, 2009, due to its relatively undisturbed intertidal ecosystem and unique biodiversity.

Geography

The national park covers land from the North Sea coast of Schleswig-Holstein near the Danish border in the north to the Elbe estuary in the south. In the northern area, such as near Amrum, the park boundary reaches the 12-mile territorial limit. To the south, the boundary extends to about the 3-mile line. On land, the boundary runs 150 meters offshore. Sea dykes and the land directly in front of them are not part of the park, meaning most beaches are not protected. Inhabited areas in the sea, including the five German North Frisian Islands and larger Halligen islands like Langeness, Hooge, Gröde, Oland, and Nordstrandischmoor, are also excluded. Uninhabited islands, islets, and Halligen, such as Trischen, Blauort, and the North Frisian Barrier Island, are included in the park. The park belongs to the "Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea, Islands and Halligen" region within the Schleswig-Holstein Marshes and the German Bight.

The park can be divided into two parts. In the north, between the Danish border and the Eiderstedt peninsula, lies the North Frisian area. To the south, along the Eiderstedt coast to the Elbe estuary, is the Dithmarschen area. The North Frisian Wadden Sea, along with the Danish Wadden Sea, is part of the North Sea. It is protected from the open sea by the North Frisian Islands and Halligen. These islands formed when mainland land separated due to flooding. Mudflats are protected, and the transition between the flats and the sea is clearer because the flats lie east of large islands, while the sea lies west of them. There are no major river estuaries, and tides are small, less than two meters. In the northern Wadden Sea, ice-age-formed geest cliffs remain, creating the highest points in an otherwise flat area. The Dithmarschen area and the coast between the Elbe and Eider estuaries form the central Wadden Sea. Tides here are larger, over three meters, which has limited island formation. Only Trischen, a small and young island, rises high enough to support saltwater plants. Unlike the older East Frisian Islands, Trischen is smaller and less stable. Human efforts to build on Trischen have failed. The central Wadden Sea has lower salinity and more salt level changes due to several large estuaries.

The park is divided into two zones with different protection levels. Zone 1 covers 162,000 hectares, or one-third of the park. It includes 12 areas with marshes, mudflats, sandflats, tidal creeks, and underwater areas. Smaller units near bird nesting sites, seal sandbars, and areas with natural land shapes are also included. Zone 1 is mostly closed to the public. Exceptions include coastal mudflats, guided tours, and fishing. South of the Hindenburgdamm, near Sylt, a 12,500-hectare area is completely off-limits (Zero use zone), with 3,500 hectares permanently underwater.

Zone 2 surrounds Zone 1 and allows sustainable use. West of Sylt’s coast, a 124,000-hectare area protects small whales, like the common porpoise, which declined by 90% in the North Sea during the 20th century. Activities like swimming, sailing, and traditional crab fishing are allowed, but industrial fishing, jet-skis, fast ships, military use, and resource extraction are not.

The North Sea coast is very flat, with the ocean floor dropping only a few centimeters per kilometer. High tides twice daily bring sand, clay, and silt into the Wadden Sea. Tides in Schleswig-Holstein’s Wadden Sea range from 1.5 to 3.7 meters, increasing from north to south. The lowest tides occur on Sylt’s north coast, and the highest in southern Dithmarschen. Water flows into the Wadden Sea faster than it flows out, leaving sediments behind.

Over two-thirds of the park is permanently underwater (sublittoral), 30% is mudflat that is dry at low tide and flooded at high tide (eulittoral), and the rest is land that floods only under certain conditions (supralittoral). Water areas include the offshore park and strong tidal currents like the Lister Tief and Heverstrom. A constant current flows from the southern North Sea to the Norwegian Trench. Salinity, or salt content, is 20–30 psu due to rivers like the Rhine and Elbe.

Inhabited areas are not part of the park, so land is mostly salt marshes, with some sandbars and dunes. Salt marshes cover over 10,000 hectares, with 70% protected by breakwaters, 10% on the leeward side of islands, and the rest around Halligen. Between 1988 and 2001, salt marshes expanded by 700 hectares. Natural salt marshes are found around islands and near Schobüll and St. Peter-Ording.

The entire Wadden Sea has an Atlantic climate. Strong west winds and heat storage create cold summers (July average: 14.5°C) and mild winters (January average: 1.8°C).

Flora and fauna

The Wadden Sea area is known for its saltwater, tides, and strong winds. Only certain types of animals and plants can live there. Fish, birds that lay eggs, and many sea animals use the Wadden Sea as a place to raise their young. In spring and fall, large groups of birds that travel long distances visit the Wadden Sea to find food. In Schleswig-Holstein’s Wadden Sea, there are about 700 types of plants and 2,500 types of animals. Ten percent of these are found nowhere else in the world.

Eelgrass is the only underwater plant that can grow in the Wadden Sea. In 1930, an outbreak killed most of the eelgrass in the Atlantic Ocean. Since then, the plants have not grown back. Today, eelgrass is mainly found in the northern part of Schleswig-Holstein’s Wadden Sea and covers 6,000 hectares. This is much larger than the 705 hectares in Lower Saxony and 130 hectares in the Netherlands. Unlike the worldwide trend of eelgrass decreasing, the eelgrass in the Frisian Wadden Sea is growing. In August, eelgrass covers up to 13% of the North Frisian Wadden Sea. These areas provide homes for sea life and are a key food source for barnacle geese.

Salt marshes are the main landscape between the open sea and inland areas. They are flooded 10 to 250 times each year, depending on the height of the tides. Salt marshes form different zones based on salt levels. The lower zone, which is flooded most often, has higher salt levels than the upper zone, which is less frequently flooded because it is higher up. About 50 types of flowering plants live in salt marshes. In low areas, plants like common salt marsh grass, sea-aster, sea-blite, and sea-purslane are common. In higher areas, plants such as seaside centaury, red eyebright, seaside plantain, and distant sedge grow.

In dunes, only a few plants can survive because of the harsh conditions. Rainy dune valleys have plants similar to those in marshes, such as cotton grass, drosera, and marsh gentian.

Many harbor porpoises live in the national park. The Wadden Sea is also home to harbor seals and grey seals. In 2017, about 13,000 harbor seals lived in Schleswig-Holstein’s Wadden Sea. Nearly half of the seal population died during an outbreak in 1988 and 2002. The National Park Administration estimated that one-third of the harbor seals were swimming or hunting when counted, so the number was adjusted. There are about 140 grey seals, mainly on the "Jungnamensand" and "Knobsand" sand bars near Amrum.

Few insects live in the Wadden Sea. Most of the 2,000 highly specialized species found in the national park live in salt marshes. Insects struggle to survive in the Wadden Sea because of high salt levels and frequent flooding, especially during their young stage. To survive, they hide in soil or inside plants. They prefer plant parts that have released saltwater. Examples include the "Halligflieder-Spitzmaus-Rüsselkäfer" and "Strandwegerichgallrüsselkäfer" (Mecinus collaris), which live in specific plants. The magnificent salt beetle (Bledius spectabilis) digs tunnels in mudflats.

Sea lavender is the food source for the caterpillar of the rare Salzwiesen-Kleinspanner (Scopula emutaria). This species is only found in the coastal areas of Sylt and Amrum.

The bird life in the national park is similar to other Wadden Sea regions. Over 10 million birds visit the area in spring and fall, making it the most bird-rich place in Europe. Migrating birds come to feed in the area. Changes in the Wadden Sea make it hard to measure the national park’s effect on bird populations. From 1994 to 2004, three bird species increased in number, while 18 others decreased, including barnacle geese, common greenshanks, and Eurasian curlews.

The reason for the decline in bird numbers is unknown. It is thought that trawling fishing harms the birds’ food supply. Species that live inland seem to benefit from dyked areas, which are separated from saltwater. Examples of dyked areas in Schleswig-Holstein include Beltringharder Koog, Hauke-Haien-Koog, Speicherkoog, and Rickelsbüller Koog. Since 2000, eagle pairs have started nesting permanently in the Wadden Sea.

The northwest-European common shelduck population, numbering 180,000 birds, molts (loses and grows new feathers) in the Wadden Sea between July and September, mainly near the protected island of Trischen. Over 80% of this population gathers there. This event, called "mass molting," is unique worldwide.

About 200,000 eider ducks molt in the Wadden Sea, with around 1,000 pairs using the North Sea mudflats to breed. Most eider ducks are found on Amrum. Large numbers of barnacle geese (about 60,000) and brant geese (about 84,000) live on islands and Halligen. Barnacle geese are spending more time in the Wadden Sea. Common scoters appear in large numbers near the North Frisian Islands at depths of 2–10 meters.

The typical mussels in the Wadden Sea are the common cockle and blue mussel. Common cockles are widespread, but wild blue mussels are less common than in southern Wadden Sea areas. Blue mussels are affected by the spread of Pacific oysters, which thrive in warmer winters. The sand gaper was likely brought to the region by Vikings from America. The American piddock arrived in the late 19th century, and the Atlantic jack

The National Park

Protecting the Wadden Sea in Schleswig-Holstein has been a goal for nature conservation since the 20th century. In the 1920s, people first focused on protecting areas like "Sylt-Nord" and the Morsum cliff (Sylt). Since 1940, 11 conservation areas were created in North Frisia, mainly to protect animal species, especially birds.

As conservation areas developed, protecting habitats became more important. In the 1960s, plans were made to conserve the entire Wadden Sea. In 1963, the Wadden Sea Conservation Station proposed protecting the area around the small undyked islands near Schleswig-Holstein. In 1972, a local hunting group first suggested calling the Wadden Sea a national park, two years after the Bavarian Forest National Park was created. In 1973, the agriculture ministry proposed a law, but it was canceled the next year due to local opposition. In 1975, scientists held the first conference on Wadden Sea conservation, and in 1978, a meeting with leaders from Germany, the Netherlands, and Denmark took place. In 1982, the three countries signed a joint agreement to protect the Wadden Sea. However, the Wadden Sea was not declared a national park until 1985 because of political tensions caused by the Frisian people’s desire for freedom. In 1999, the national park was expanded again, but this also led to protests.

The CDU government created the Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea National Park, the third in Germany after the Bavarian Forest and Berchtesgaden National Parks. In July 1985, the state legislature passed the national park law. The protected area covered 272,000 hectares, divided into three zones. The park started 150 meters from the coastline and extended seaward to 5–10 meters of water depth. The law took effect on October 1, 1985.

In 1986, Lower Saxony and in 1990, Hamburg also created their Wadden Sea National Parks. In the Netherlands and Denmark, other conservation efforts protected the Wadden Sea. Denmark declared its Wadden Sea a national park in 2010.

The national park law states that the goal is to protect animals, plants, and natural processes in the area. Any use of the land must balance with conservation goals. People living near the coast felt ignored by the government, believing the Wadden Sea was shaped by their ancestors and that they should have more freedom. Others, like local conservation groups, worried the law’s rules were not enough and feared too many tourists.

In 1996, a report called the Ecosystem Synthesis, written by scientists, suggested changes to the national park law. The report was discussed in over 200 local meetings and 15 board meetings. In 1998, the government began revising the law, and it took effect in December 1999.

The report proposed expanding the park to 349,000 hectares, creating zero-use zones like "Lister Tief" and "Wesselburener Loch," and banning certain activities during bird moulting. These changes led to protests, including fishermen blocking the Kiel Canal and locals throwing eggs at an official.

Protests focused on the size of zero-use zones and the park’s landward border, which was changed to include salt marshes and swimming areas. In December 1999, the law was updated to expand the park seaward but keep the landward border at 150 meters from dykes. A zero-use zone was created near the Hindenburgdamm instead of the originally planned areas. A whale sanctuary was added, and hunting was banned, affecting shellfisheries. The law also limited boat speeds and simplified the conservation zones.

To improve cooperation, the law created groups for local projects and discussions. The National Park Administration is the nature conservation authority for Schleswig-Holstein’s Wadden Sea.

Human utilisation of the National Park

The Wadden Sea National Park is near 70 communities in Schleswig-Holstein, where 290,000 people live. Each year, about 15 million visitors come to the park. The area is used for many activities, including tourism, fishing, oil production, coastal protection, grazing, maritime and air traffic, removing gravel and sand, growing mussels, and sometimes testing military weapons. Most of these activities happen near the coast, so the area farther out to sea is less affected by human actions. Since a change to the national park law in 1999, agreements between people and the park help control how humans use the area. Including traditional practices has helped locals support the park more. Since 1987, certain activities that have little effect on the ecosystem, like collecting small plants for science or education, are allowed again.

The National Park Administration regularly runs a program called "SÖM Watt" (Sozio-ökonomisches Monitoring) to collect and analyze information about the local economy, population changes, and the opinions of people living nearby. Results show that tourists know as much about the park as locals. A survey across Germany ranked the Wadden Sea National Park second in popularity, behind the Bavarian Forest National Park. However, few people can tell the difference between the Wadden Sea National Parks in Schleswig-Holstein, Hamburg, and Lower Saxony without help.

Surveys show that locals strongly support the park. In 2017, about 85% of people in Dithmarschen and North Frisia said they would support continuing the park. Since 2009, support has stayed above 80%. About 10% of people would support the park under certain conditions, and only 2% would oppose it. Some people who oppose the park worry about limits on fishing, water sports, and access to protected areas, but most understand the need for conservation. In 2014, 36% of locals said they are proud of the park, and 52% believe it is important. Women and young adults tend to view the park more positively than men and older people.

It is hard to measure how well the National Park Administration’s education and communication efforts have worked with locals. Limiting agriculture in the park is difficult because there was not much farming there before the park was created. Even after 32 years, only 14% of people living near the park know it has the status of a national park. Fewer than 1% of people know the Wadden Sea is also a biosphere reserve.

Coastal protection is a higher priority than nature conservation in the park. New dikes are being built, and old ones are being reinforced to protect against rising sea levels. In some areas, like the west coast of Sylt, sand and gravel are added to beaches to replace eroded material. Coastal protection has been part of the Wadden Sea’s history for centuries, such as when drainage channels were dug in salt marshes long ago. These channels have changed the natural environment of the area.

In the past, land reclamation was a top priority for people living in the area. Today, only small areas are planned for reclamation to improve flood protection. The national park law states that conservation efforts should help support the lives and work of local people. This goal is achieved through increased tourism and the park’s reputation. The Wadden Sea National Park is a popular destination for German tourists. Official data show that 1.5 million visitors spend 8.4 million nights in nearby areas, islands, and Hallig islands. Unofficial numbers are likely higher because they do not include private rentals, camping, or staying with family or friends. Researchers estimate that there are 18.7 million overnight stays and 12.8 million daily visitors each year. About 9,000 people in the North Sea region work in the tourism industry.

Managing the park is difficult because there are too many visitors, the park is large, and there are not enough staff to supervise them. Unlike other national parks, the Wadden Sea National Park has many entrances through dikes. The National Park Administration works with local communities and conservation groups to improve supervision.

Most visitors stay outside the park. When they enter, they often join guided tours on the mudflats. In 2016, the highest number of guided tours since 1999 was recorded: 5,900 tours with 149,000 participants. About two-thirds of these tours are organized by the Wadden Sea Conservation Station, and the rest are led by professional mudflat guides.

It is unclear how much the national park status has increased tourism in the North Sea region. Compared to areas not near the park, the increase in visitors near the park is not much higher. However, in 2014, 17% of people vacationing in the North Sea region said they chose the area because of the national park. These visitors contribute about 89 million euros in income, which is equivalent to the earnings of 4,741 people. A survey also found that 44% of people said the conservation of the Wadden Sea was a very important or important factor in choosing their vacation destination.

The National Park Administration manages public relations for the park. Part of this includes a visitor information system with signs, maps, guides, and information boards. About 750 items are placed throughout the area to help visitors learn about the park.

Literature

• Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) (Publisher): Nomination of the Dutch-German Wadden Sea as a World Heritage Site. Available as a PDF, 2008
• Landesamt für den Nationalpark Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer (Publisher): Wattenmeermonitoring 2000 – Schriftenreihe des Nationalparks Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer, Special Issue, Tönning 2001
• Landesamt für den Nationalpark Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer (Publisher): SÖM-Bericht 2008 available as a PDF
• Landesamt für den Nationalpark Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer / Landesamt für den Nationalpark Niedersächsisches Wattenmeer / Umweltbundesamt (Publisher): Environmental Atlas of the Wadden Sea. Volume 1 (North Frisian and Dithmarscher Wadden Sea), Ulmer Publishing, Stuttgart, ISBN 3-8001-3492-6
• Ministry of Agriculture, Environment, and Rural Areas of Schleswig-Holstein (MLUL) (Publisher): Report on the Review of the Biosphere Reserve Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer and Halligen by UNESCO. Period covered: 1990 to 2005. Available as a PDF, June 2005
• Dirk Legler: Organization of German National Park Administrations. Nomos Publishing, Baden-Baden 2006, ISBN 3-8329-1978-3
• Martin Stock et al.: Salt Marshes along the West Coast of Schleswig-Holstein 1986–2001. Boyens Buchverlag, Heide 2005, ISBN 3-8042-0703-0

Filmography

"Im Nationalpark Wattenmeer" is a documentary film that is 45 minutes long. It was made in Germany in 1998 by Jens-Uwe Heins and Michael Sutor. The film was produced by Komplett-Media-GmbH, Grünwald. The book's ISBN number is 3-89672-492-4. A short description of the film was provided by ARD.