The Sutjeska National Park (Serbo-Croatian: Nacionalni park Sutjeska, Национални парк Сутјеска, pronounced [sûtjɛska]) is a national park in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It was created in 1962 and is the oldest national park in the country. The park includes Maglić, the highest mountain in Bosnia and Herzegovina, which rises more than 2,386 metres (7,828 ft) and is located on the border with Montenegro. Part of the Maglić mountain range in the park is home to Trnovačko Jezero (Trnovačko Lake). The park also contains the Strict Nature Reserve "Perućica," one of the last two remaining ancient forests in Europe. The park is well known as the site of the Battle of Sutjeska in 1943 during World War II. It is an affiliated member of the EUROPARC Federation.
History
The park was created in 1962 and is the largest and oldest national park in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It was declared mainly because of its history of important battles, not for protecting nature.
Within the park is the Perućica forest reserve, which was established in 1952 as a "Natural reserve for scientific and educational purposes." Perućica is one of the last two remaining ancient forests in Europe and is one of five Strict Nature Reserves in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The park is also known for the Battle of Sutjeska, which took place from May 15 to June 16, 1943, during World War II. In this battle, the Partisans defeated the German forces. The Partisans were led by Marshal Josip Broz Tito of the Supreme Headquarters of Yugoslavia, who prevented the enemy’s plans. Despite losing one-third of their soldiers, the Partisans escaped the enemy’s trap. Large memorial stones near Tjentište, at the northern edge of the park, mark this event on the path to the Perućica forest reserve.
Geography
The Sutjeska National Park covers an area of about 17,500 hectares (43,000 acres). It is bordered on the east by the Pivska Planina Mountain (1,775 meters or 5,823 feet) and the Piva River, which extend to Šćepan Polje and follow the Drina River to where the Sutjeska River joins it. On the west, the park is bordered by Zelengora Mountain (2,014 meters or 6,608 feet), which connects to Lelija Mountain (2,032 meters or 6,667 feet). On the southeast, the park is bordered by Maglić Mountain (2,386 meters or 7,828 feet), Volujak Mountain (2,337 meters or 7,667 feet), and Bioč Mountain (2,388 meters or 7,835 feet). A plan to expand the park by an additional 8,331 hectares (20,590 acres) is being considered. This would include 3,500 hectares (8,600 acres) near the Tara River canyon. If approved, Sutjeska National Park would become the largest protected area in the Republic of Srpska and the entire country. The park works with the nearby Durmitor National Park in Montenegro to protect natural areas across borders.
The park is open to visitors most of the year, though access is limited during parts of winter. It can be reached by road from Sarajevo (110 kilometers or 68 miles) and Dubrovnik, Croatia (142 kilometers or 88 miles). The main highway connecting the area is the Belgrade-Visegrad-Herceg Novi route. The Trebinje-Foca road runs along the canyon walls through forests to the park. The valley opens at the park’s northern edge. Foča, a city near the Montenegro border, is 20 kilometers (12 miles) from the park. The nearest town is Mratinje. Maglić Mountain, Bosnia and Herzegovina’s highest peak, lies on the border with Montenegro and is a difficult climb for hikers. Zelengora Mountain is a popular hiking spot with several renovated mountain huts. The Tara River is known for white water rafting.
Perućica Forest Reserve, located inside the park, is 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) long, 1–3 kilometers (0.62–1.86 miles) wide, and covers 1,400 hectares (3,500 acres). It is a UNESCO-recognized site. The forest contains trees that are 300 years old, and some areas are estimated to be 20,000 years old. In certain parts, the dense growth makes it very hard to move through.
Skakavac Waterfall is located on the Perućica River, a small mountain stream deep within the primeval forest. It is part of a protected area within the park. The waterfall is one of the tallest in the country, reaching about 75 meters (246 feet) in height. It is hidden in the thick forest of beech and spruce trees that cover the valley.
Perućica Primeval Forest is located beneath Maglić Mountain, the highest peak in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is separated from Zelengora Mountain by the Sutjeska River and its deep, rugged canyon. The Perućica Creek flows through the forest between two steep slopes of Maglić Mountain. In the middle of its path, the stream forms a cascade from a high valley to a lower one, falling over a large limestone ridge to a 75-meter-deep cliff. After this, the creek joins the Sutjeska River in the Tjentište Valley.
The Piva and Drina Rivers form the park’s northwestern border. The Sutjeska River is the main river within the park and divides Zelengora Mountain from Maglić, Volujak, and Bioč Mountains. It has carved a deep canyon 1,200 meters (3,936 feet) deep and runs through the Tjentište Valley in the center of the park. Other rivers in the park are tributaries of the Sutjeska. Left tributaries include Klobučarica Creek, Jabučnica Creek, and Hrčavka River. Right tributaries include Suški Creek (also called Suha River or Creek Sušica), Prijevor Creek, and Perućica Creek.
Zelengora Mountain contains nine glacial lakes known as "Gorske oči" ("Eyes of the Mountain"). These lakes are: Crno Lake, Bijelo Lake, Orlovačko Lake, Gornje Bare Lake, Donje Bare Lake, Štirinsko Lake, Kotlaničko Lake, Kladopoljsko Lake, and Jugovo Lake (also called Borilovačko Lake).
The park’s climate is a transition zone. A moderate continental climate, which is neither too hot nor too cold, is common in the north. The influence of a southern Mediterranean climate is less noticeable. The mountain climate is also affected by the Adriatic Sea, making it milder than typical mountain climates.
Flora
The park has thick forests that cover 66% of the area. Above these forests are mountain pastures, meadows, and rocky ground. The northwestern hill slopes have dense coniferous and beech trees growing up to an elevation of 1,600 metres (5,200 ft). In other directions, the hill slopes are very steep, rocky, and lack vegetation. Pastures are found on plateaus above 1,600 metres (5,200 ft). The park is home to 2,600 species of vascular plants, many of which are rare or found only in this region. It also has about 100 species of edible fungi. The Perućica forest includes large beech trees that can reach heights of 60 metres (200 ft) or more, with trunks about 150 centimetres (59 in) wide. Endemic black pines grow on rocky faces, helping to protect the ancient forest in the valley. The trees in the Perućica primeval forest have never been cut down, and some are as old as 300 years.
Fauna
The park is home to many different types of animals. Bears, chamois, boars, wolves, pine martens, mink martens, wild cats, foxes, and wild goats have been seen in the park, especially in the Perućica forests. The park has more than 300 types of birds living near the nine lakes on the Zelengora mountain range and in the wetlands. The Balkan chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra balcanica), a type of goat-antelope that lives in Europe and the Carpathian Mountains, is managed using the species found in the park. Between 1963 and 1987, 256 chamois were moved to 13 other areas in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia. Some birds found in the Perućica forests include golden eagles, grouse, peregrine falcons, blackbirds, and rock partridges.
Conservation and protection
Sutjeska National Park is a member of the EUROPARC Federation. Because natural resources, such as firewood, have been overused or taken illegally, the World Bank helped create a plan to manage the area. This plan includes protecting nature, managing forests, preserving cultural heritage, developing tourism, and improving the lives of people living nearby. The plan includes improving existing protected areas and creating new important areas. It received $2.76 million in funding, with $1.4 million coming from the Global Environment Facility. The project began in 2006 and covers Sutjeska National Park and Kozara National Park. It focuses on improving ecosystems, planning how land is used with community input, building new infrastructure, and repairing small buildings that help the park operate. Infrastructure improvements include fixing trails, building new trails, repairing signs, creating rest areas, and marking the park’s boundaries. A special training program is also part of the project. Since the 1960s, improving infrastructure has been a challenge because it must not harm the environment.
Trnovačko Lake is located just outside the park and near the borders of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is a glacial lake at an elevation of 1,500 meters (4,900 feet), and it is 700 meters (2,300 feet) long and 400 meters (1,300 feet) wide. It is surrounded by a large area of rocky mountains. Water from the Maglic, Volujak, and Bioc hill ranges flows into the lake. The open northern side of the lake has a wooded area called Vratnice. The lake’s water is green-blue. A plan is being made to create another national park in Montenegro to protect the remaining parts of the Magilć-Volujak-Bioč mountain range and Trnovačko Lake. These two parks in neighboring countries would form one large protected area that crosses borders.