Yosemite National Park is a national park in California, United States. It is next to the Sierra National Forest on the southeast and the Stanislaus National Forest on the northwest. The National Park Service manages the park, which covers 1,187 square miles (3,070 square kilometers) across four counties—mainly Tuolumne and Mariposa, and also parts of Mono and Madera. Named a World Heritage Site in 1984, Yosemite is known for its granite cliffs, waterfalls, clear streams, giant sequoia trees, lakes, mountains, meadows, glaciers, and many types of plants and animals. About 95% of the park is wilderness. Yosemite is one of the largest and least broken-up habitats in the Sierra Nevada mountain range.

The park's geology includes granite and some older rocks. About 10 million years ago, the Sierra Nevada mountains rose and tilted, making the land steeper and creating deep, narrow canyons. Around one million years ago, glaciers formed at high elevations and moved downhill, carving and shaping the U-shaped Yosemite Valley.

People may have first arrived in the area between 10,000 and 8,000 years ago. Native Americans lived in the region for nearly 4,000 years. European Americans came to the area by 1833, and settlers reached the valley in 1851. James D. Savage is credited with discovering the area that became Yosemite National Park.

Yosemite played an important role in creating the idea of national parks. Galen Clark and others worked to protect Yosemite Valley from development, which led to President Abraham Lincoln signing the Yosemite Grant of 1864. This made Yosemite federally protected land. In 1890, environmentalist John Muir helped start a movement that led Congress to establish Yosemite Valley and its surrounding areas as a National Park. This helped create the National Park System. Yosemite has about four million visitors each year. Most visitors spend time in the valley's seven square miles (18 square kilometers). In 2016, the park had the most visitors in its history, with more than five million people. In 2024, the park received over four million visitors.

Toponym

The name Yosemite comes from the Miwok word "yohhe'meti," which means "they are killers." This name was historically used by the Miwok people to describe the Ahwahneechee, the local Native American group who lived in the area. Before this, the Ahwahneechee called the region "Ahwahnee," which means "big mouth" in their language. The Miwok word Yosemite is often mistaken for another similar word that means "grizzly bear," and this confusion is still common today.

History

The first people who lived in Yosemite called themselves the Ahwahneechee, which means "dwellers" in their language. The Ahwahneechee were the only tribe that lived inside Yosemite Valley, but other tribes lived nearby. These groups together formed a larger group of Indigenous people in California called the Southern Sierra Miwok. They were related to the Northern Paiute and Mono tribes. Other tribes, like the Central Sierra Miwoks and the Yokuts, lived in the San Joaquin Valley and central California. These tribes visited Yosemite to trade goods and marry, which helped mix their cultures. This blending of cultures helped the Ahwahneechee survive after early American settlers and cities threatened their way of life. The plants and animals in the area were similar to today, with acorns, seeds, plants, salmon, and deer being important parts of their diet.

The California Gold Rush from 1848 to 1855 greatly affected the Native population. More than 90,000 European Americans arrived in 1849, leading to competition for resources between miners and Native people. Before the Gold Rush, about 300,000 Indigenous people lived in California. Their numbers dropped to 150,000 within 70 years and then to about 50,000 within 10 years. The reasons for this decline included disease, fewer babies being born, starvation, and conflict. The conflict in Yosemite, called the Mariposa War, was part of the California genocide, which was the organized killing of Indigenous people across the state from the 1840s to the 1870s. The war began in December 1850 when California funded a group of soldiers to drive Native people out of areas where they lived to stop Native resistance to European settlers.

Yosemite tribes sometimes stole from settlers and miners as revenge for the loss of their lands, resources, and people. The Mariposa War and the creation of the Mariposa Battalion started after an attack on a trading post owned by James Savage in December 1850. Savage gathered miners and local officials to fight Native people. He became a U.S. Army major and leader of the Mariposa Battalion in 1851. Savage and Captain John Boling led efforts to force the Ahwahneechee, led by Chief Tenaya, out of Yosemite. In March 1851, the battalion captured about 70 Ahwahneechee and planned to take them to a reservation in Fresno, but they escaped. Later in May, the battalion captured 35 Ahwahneechee, including Chief Tenaya, and marched them to the reservation. Most were allowed to leave, and others escaped. Chief Tenaya and some of his people fled to join the Mono Lake Paiute tribe. Tenaya and some of his companions were killed in 1853, possibly over a horse theft or a gambling dispute. The remaining Ahwahneechee were absorbed into the Mono Lake Paiute tribe.

Accounts from the Mariposa Battalion were the first detailed records of European Americans entering Yosemite Valley. Doctor Lafayette Bunnell, who was part of Savage's group, later wrote about his impressions of Yosemite in a book called The Discovery of the Yosemite. Bunnell is credited with naming Yosemite Valley after interviews with Chief Tenaya. He incorrectly believed the word "Yosemite" meant "full-grown grizzly bear."

After the Mariposa War, Native Americans continued to live in Yosemite in smaller numbers. The remaining Ahwahneechee were forced to move to a village built by the state government in 1851. They adapted to their new lives by working in tourism, running small businesses, and selling goods. By the late 1800s, it was hard to estimate how many Native people lived in Yosemite, with estimates ranging from 30 to several hundred. The Ahwahneechee and their descendants were difficult to identify. The last full-blooded Ahwahneechee, Totuya (also known as Maria Lebrado), died in 1931. She was the granddaughter of Chief Tenaya and one of many displaced from their homeland. The Ahwahneechee people live on through their descendants, other Native people in Yosemite, and exhibits at the Smithsonian and Yosemite Museum. In 1851 and 1852, Indigenous people proposed treaties to create land reservations, but Congress refused to approve them. The Southern Sierra Miwok Nation still seeks tribal sovereignty and federal recognition.

In 1953, the National Park Service banned non-employee Native people from living in the park and evicted those who lived there. In 1969, the remaining Native people in the park (all employees and their families) were moved to government housing for park workers, and the village was destroyed during a fire-fighting exercise. A reconstructed "Indian Village of Ahwahnee" now stands behind the Yosemite Museum, near the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center. The National Park Service has created rules to protect sacred sites and allow Native people to return to their lands and use park resources.

In 1855, entrepreneur James Mason Hutchings, artist Thomas Ayres, and others became the first tourists to visit Yosemite. Hutchings and Ayres wrote articles and special issues about the valley, increasing interest in Yosemite. Ayres' drawings, which had exaggerated shapes, were shared nationally and displayed in New York City. Hutchings' efforts from 1855 to 1860 helped grow tourism in Yosemite. Native people supported the growing tourism industry by working as laborers, maids, guides, and selling handmade goods like woven baskets. The Indian village and its people fascinated visitors, especially Hutchings, who promoted Yosemite tourism. He and others believed the presence of Native people was one of Yosemite's greatest attractions.

Wawona was an early camp for Nuchu and Ahwahneechee people who were captured and moved to a reservation on the Fresno River by Savage and the Mariposa Battalion in March 1851. Galen Clark discovered the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias in Wawona in 1857. He built simple lodgings and roads there. In 1879, the Wawona Hotel was built to serve tourists visiting the grove. As tourism grew, more trails and hotels were built.

The Wawona Tree, also called the Tunnel Tree, was a giant sequoia in the Mariposa Grove. It was 234 feet tall and 90 feet around. A tunnel was cut through the tree in 1881 to make it a popular tourist attraction. Carriages and cars passed through the tunnel. The tree was weakened by the tunnel and fell in 1969 under heavy snow. It was estimated to be 2,100 years old.

Yosemite's first business was started in 188

Geography

Yosemite National Park is located in the central Sierra Nevada. Three wilderness areas are next to Yosemite: the Ansel Adams Wilderness to the southeast, the Hoover Wilderness to the northeast, and the Emigrant Wilderness to the north.

The park covers 1,189 square miles (3,080 km²) and includes thousands of lakes and ponds, 1,600 miles (2,600 km) of streams, 800 miles (1,300 km) of hiking trails, and 350 miles (560 km) of roads. Two rivers, the Merced and the Tuolumne, are labeled as Wild and Scenic Rivers. These rivers begin in Yosemite and flow westward through the Sierra foothills into California’s Central Valley.

Most of the landforms in Yosemite are made from granitic rock found in the Sierra Nevada Batholith, which is a large mass of rock formed deep underground. About 5% of the park’s landforms, mainly near Mount Dana in the east, are made from volcanic and sedimentary rocks that were changed by heat and pressure. These rocks once formed the top layer over the granitic rock below.

Erosion, which happens when rocks are worn away by natural forces, shapes valleys, canyons, and other features. This erosion occurs because of cracks in the rock caused by the movement of Earth’s crust. These cracks do not move and are not faults. The spacing between cracks depends on how much silica is in the granite and granodiorite rocks. More silica makes the rock stronger, creating larger spaces between cracks.

Pillars and columns, like Washington Column and Lost Arrow, form where cracks cross each other. Erosion along major cracks shapes valleys and canyons. Over millions of years, large alpine glaciers have been the main force shaping Yosemite’s landscape. These glaciers turned V-shaped river valleys into U-shaped canyons, such as Yosemite Valley and Hetch Hetchy Valley. Exfoliation, which happens when crystals in plutonic rocks expand at the surface, creates domes like Half Dome and North Dome and arches like Royal Arches.

Yosemite Valley covers only 1% of the park. Tunnel View offers a view of the valley. El Capitan is a large granite cliff that rises above the valley and is popular for rock climbing because of its size, many climbing routes, and year-round access. The park has many granite domes, including Sentinel Dome and Half Dome, which rise 3,000 and 4,800 feet (910 and 1,460 m) above the valley floor. Taft Point is a spot where visitors can see the valley floor 3,500 feet (1,100 m) below.

The high areas of Yosemite include places like Tuolumne Meadows, Dana Meadows, the Clark Range, the Cathedral Range, and the Kuna Crest. The Sierra Crest and the Pacific Crest Trail pass through Yosemite. Mount Dana and Mount Gibbs are peaks made of red metamorphic rock. Granite peaks include Mount Conness, Cathedral Peak, and Matterhorn Peak. Mount Lyell is the tallest point in the park, standing at 13,120 feet (4,000 m). The Lyell Glacier is the largest glacier in Yosemite and one of the few remaining in the Sierra.

The park has three groves of ancient giant sequoia trees: the Mariposa Grove (200 trees), the Tuolumne Grove (25 trees), and the Merced Grove (20 trees). These trees grow larger in volume than any other tree species and are among the tallest and longest-lived.

The Tuolumne and Merced Rivers begin in Yosemite and have carved deep canyons. The Tuolumne River drains the northern part of the park, covering about 680 square miles (1,800 km²). The Merced River starts in the southern peaks of the park and drains about 511 square miles (1,320 km²).

Water-related processes, such as glaciers, flooding, and river activity, have shaped Yosemite’s landforms. The park has about 3,200 lakes, two reservoirs, and 1,700 miles (2,700 km) of streams. Wetlands are common in valley bottoms and are connected to lakes and rivers through seasonal flooding and groundwater. Meadow and riverbank habitats are often wetlands.

Yosemite is famous for having many waterfalls in a small area. Many steep drops, glacial steps, and hanging valleys create waterfalls, especially during April, May, and June when snow melts. Yosemite Falls in Yosemite Valley is the fourth tallest waterfall in North America, at 2,425 feet (739 m). Ribbon Falls, also in the valley, has the highest single drop of 1,612 feet (491 m). Bridalveil Fall is one of the most famous waterfalls in the valley. Horsetail Fall flows over El Capitan’s edge and usually only flows in winter. On rare evenings in February, it can glow orange when sunlight reflects off it during sunset. Wapama Falls in Hetch Hetchy Valley is another notable waterfall. Many small waterfalls appear in the park after heavy rains or snowmelt.

Yosemite’s glaciers are small and found in shaded areas, like north- and northeast-facing valleys. Lyell Glacier is the largest in Yosemite and covers 160 acres (65 ha). These glaciers formed during recent cold periods, not from the ancient Ice Age glaciers that shaped Yosemite. Many glaciers, like the Black Mountain Glacier, have disappeared. The last two glaciers, Lyell and Maclure, have shrunk over the past 100 years and may vanish due to climate change.

Yosemite has a Mediterranean climate, meaning most rain falls in winter, and summers are dry. Rain increases with elevation up to about 8,000 feet (2,400 m), then decreases. Rainfall ranges from 36 inches (910 mm) at 4,000 feet (1,200 m) to 50 inches (1,300 mm) at 8,600 feet (2,600 m). Snow usually starts in November in the high areas and lasts until March or early April.

Average daily temperatures at Tuolumne Meadows (8,600 feet or 2,600 m) range from 25°F (−4°C) to 53°F (12°C). At Wawona Entrance (5,130 feet or 1,560 m), temperatures range from 36°F (2°C) to 67°F (19°C). At lower elevations, like Yosemite Valley (3,966 feet or 1,209 m), temperatures are hotter, with daily highs from 46°F (8°C) to 90°F (32°C). At elevations above 8,000 feet (2,400 m), summer heat is cooled by thunderstorms and snow that can last into July. Dry vegetation, low humidity, and thunderstorms often cause

Geology

The park’s area was once a passive continental margin during the Precambrian and early Paleozoic eras. Sediment from nearby continents was carried by water and deposited in shallow seas. Over time, these sediments were folded, bent, and changed by heat and pressure.

Heat from the Farallon Plate moving under the North American Plate during the late Devonian to Permian periods caused a chain of volcanoes to form along the western edge of proto-North America. Material from these volcanoes attached to the western side of North America, while mountains rose to the east in Nevada.

The first major phase of plutonism, or the formation of large underground rock masses, began 210 million years ago in the late Triassic and lasted through the Jurassic until about 150 million years ago. This process created the Sierra Nevada Batholith, a large body of mostly granitic rock located about 6 miles (9.7 km) below Earth’s surface. Around the same time, the Nevadan orogeny, a mountain-building event, raised the Nevadan mountain range (also called the Ancestral Sierra Nevada) to a height of 15,000 feet (4,600 m).

A second major phase of plutonism occurred from about 120 million to 80 million years ago during the Cretaceous period. This was part of the Sevier orogeny, another mountain-building event.

Starting 20 million years ago in the Cenozoic era and ending 5 million years ago, a now-extinct branch of the Cascade Range volcanoes erupted, depositing large amounts of igneous rock over the area north of Yosemite. Volcanic activity continued east of the park’s borders in regions like Mono Lake and Long Valley.

About 10 million years ago, movement along the Sierra fault began to lift the Sierra Nevada range. Later, tilting of the Sierra block and additional faulting to the east caused the Sierra Nevada to rise more quickly. This uplift increased the slope of rivers flowing westward, making them flow faster and carve deeper valleys. Further uplift occurred when major faults formed east of the range, creating Owens Valley through extensional forces. The Sierra Nevada rose even faster about 2 million years ago during the Pleistocene.

As the Sierra Nevada lifted and erosion increased, granitic rocks were exposed to surface pressure, causing them to break apart and form rounded domes. Cracks in the solidified plutons allowed rocks to slide down slopes. Glaciers during the Pleistocene further accelerated this process, and meltwater carried loose rock and soil from valley floors.

Many vertical cracks, called joint planes, influenced where and how quickly erosion happened. These long, straight, and deep cracks often run northeast or northwest and form parallel, evenly spaced groups.

A series of glaciers shaped the region starting about 2 to 3 million years ago and ending around 10,000 years ago. At least four major glaciations occurred in the Sierra Nevada, named the Sherwin (also called pre-Tahoe), Tahoe, Tenaya, and Tioga. The Sherwin glaciers were the largest, filling Yosemite and other valleys, while later glaciers were much smaller. A Sherwin-age glacier likely carved Yosemite Valley and other canyons.

Glaciers reached depths of up to 4,000 feet (1,200 m) and left clear marks. The longest glacier extended 60 miles (97 km) down the Tuolumne River’s Grand Canyon, beyond Hetch Hetchy Valley. The Merced Glacier flowed from Yosemite Valley into the Merced River Gorge. The Lee Vining Glacier carved Lee Vining Canyon and emptied into Lake Russel, an ancient, larger version of Mono Lake. High peaks like Mount Dana and Mount Conness were not covered by glaciers. Retreating glaciers left behind moraines that formed lakes, such as Lake Yosemite, which was 5.5 miles (9 km) long and covered much of Yosemite Valley’s floor.

Ecology and environment

Yosemite National Park has elevations ranging from 2,127 to 13,114 feet (648 to 3,997 meters) and includes five main plant zones: chaparral and oak woodland, lower montane forest, upper montane forest, subalpine zone, and alpine. About half of California’s 7,000 plant species grow in the Sierra Nevada, and more than 20% are found in Yosemite. The park is home to over 160 rare plants, many of which live in unique areas with special soil and rock types.

Yosemite’s landscape includes dry chaparral, tall pine and sequoia forests, and high-elevation meadows and woodlands. These areas protect a Sierra Nevada environment that existed before European settlers arrived. Unlike nearby lands that were changed by logging, Yosemite has about 352.36 miles (912.6 kilometers) of old-growth forests. These varied habitats support more than 250 vertebrate species, such as fish, amphibians, reptiles, birds, and mammals.

Along Yosemite’s western edge, forests mix conifer trees like ponderosa pine, sugar pine, and Douglas fir, with some giant sequoia and oak trees. These areas support many types of wildlife, including black bears, coyotes, raccoons, and birds like the white-headed woodpecker.

At higher elevations, forests are mostly red fir, western white pine, and lodgepole pine. Fewer animals live here because the environment is harsher and less complex. Animals found here include golden-mantled ground squirrels, Steller’s jays, and fishers. Reptiles like the rubber boa and western fence lizard are rare but present.

As the land rises, trees grow smaller and are spaced farther apart, with exposed granite rock. Lodgepole pine, whitebark pine, and mountain hemlock grow in these areas, and at the highest points, granite dominates. Animals like pikas, marmots, and bighorn sheep live here, as they are adapted to the cold, short growing season. Bighorn sheep are found only near Tioga Pass, where a small population was reintroduced.

Meadows at different elevations are important for many animals. These areas provide food and water, attracting predators that follow prey. Species like the great grey owl and Yosemite toad rely heavily on meadows for survival.

Yosemite’s black bears were once known for stealing food from cars and garbage dumps. To reduce conflicts, trash containers were replaced with bear-proof ones, and campgrounds were equipped with secure food storage. Park staff use methods like rubber bullets to teach bears to avoid humans. Since 2001, about 30 bears are captured yearly for DNA testing to identify those causing problems.

Despite its rich habitats, some species like the brown bear and California condor are extinct in Yosemite. Others, such as the least Bell’s vireo, are protected by state or federal laws. Major threats include changes to natural fire patterns, invasive plants, air pollution, and climate change. Local issues like road accidents and human food availability also affect wildlife.

Over 130 non-native plant species have been found in Yosemite. These plants were introduced by early settlers and spread due to fires and human activities. Some invasive plants, like yellow star thistle, harm native plants by taking over soil and water. Other harmful species include bull thistle, common mullein, and Himalayan blackberry.

Ozone pollution harms sequoia trees, making them more likely to get sick or be eaten by insects. Historically, fires helped sequoia seeds grow, but fire suppression has limited their reproduction. Planned controlled burns may help restore natural fire patterns.

Before European settlers arrived, Indigenous people used small fires to clear land for farming. These fires helped control vegetation, reduce large wildfires, and support wildlife. Later, uncontrolled fires caused by a militia group accidentally destroyed parts of the forest.

Wildfires remove dead plants, allowing new growth. However, fires can harm tourism by closing areas. In 2018, the Ferguson Fire forced the park to close temporarily, the largest closure in nearly 30 years.

Yosemite has shown signs of climate change in recent decades.

Activities

Yosemite National Park is open all year, but some roads close during winter months, usually from November through May or June. Some trails, such as the 4-Mile Trail and part of the Mist Trail, also close during winter.

Traffic in the valley is heavy during the summer months (June to August), and a free shuttle bus system runs in the valley during this time. Parking in the valley is often full during the summer. Amtrak and the Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System (YARTS) offer public transportation to Yosemite from four nearby communities: Merced, Fresno, Sonora, and Mammoth Lakes/Lee Vining. The Merced route operates year-round.

The natural and cultural history of Yosemite Valley is explained at the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center, the Yosemite Museum, and the Nature Center at Happy Isles. Two National Historic Landmarks in the park are the Sierra Club’s LeConte Memorial Lodge (Yosemite’s first public visitor center) and the Ahwahnee Hotel. Camp 4 is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

There are over 800 miles (1,300 km) of trails for hikers, ranging from easy walks to challenging mountain hikes or backpacking trips. The popular Half Dome hike to the summit of Half Dome requires a permit when the cables are up, usually from Memorial Day weekend to Columbus Day. A maximum of 300 hikers, chosen by a lottery system, are allowed to go beyond the base of the subdome each day, including 225 day hikers and 75 backpackers.

The park is divided into five sections: Yosemite Valley, Wawona/Mariposa Grove/Glacier Point, Tuolumne Meadows, Hetch Hetchy, and Crane Flat/White Wolf. Many books describe park trails, and the National Park Service provides free information.

From late spring to early fall, much of the park is accessible for backpacking trips. All overnight trips in the backcountry require a wilderness permit, and most require approved bear-resistant food storage.

Some areas of Yosemite can only be reached on foot, while others are accessible by road. The most famous road is Tioga Road.

Bicycles are allowed on roads, but only 12 miles (19 km) of paved off-road trails are available in Yosemite Valley itself. Mountain biking is not permitted.

Rock climbing is an important activity in Yosemite. The valley is surrounded by summits such as Half Dome and El Capitan. Camp 4, a walk-in campground in the Valley, played a key role in developing rock climbing as a sport and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Climbers can be seen during snow-free months on climbs ranging from 10-foot-high (3 m) boulders to the 3,300-foot (1.0 km) face of El Capitan. Rock climbing classes are offered there.

Tuolumne Meadows is well known for rock and mountain climbing.

Outside the valley, much of the park is snow-covered during winter, with many roads closed. Downhill skiing is available at the Badger Pass Ski Area, the oldest downhill ski area in California, operating from mid-December through early April. Much of the park is open for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, and backcountry ski huts are available. Wilderness permits are required for overnight backcountry ski trips.

The Bracebridge dinner is an annual holiday event held at the Ahwahnee Hotel since 1927. It is inspired by Washington Irving’s descriptions of Squire Bracebridge and English Christmas traditions in his Sketch Book. From 1929 to 1973, the event was organized by Ansel Adams.

Yosemite has 13 official campgrounds.

Bicycle rentals are available from spring through fall. Over 12 miles (19 km) of paved bike paths are available in Yosemite Valley. Bicyclists may also ride on roads. Helmets are required for children under 18 years of age. Off-trail riding and mountain biking are not allowed in the park.

Water activities are available during warmer months. Rafting is offered on the Merced River from late May to July. Swimming pools are available at Yosemite Lodge and Curry Village.

In popular culture

The opening scenes of Star Trek V: The Final Frontier (1989) were filmed in Yosemite National Park. Other films, such as The Last of the Mohicans (1920) and Maverick (1994), were also filmed there. The 2014 documentary Valley Uprising focuses on Yosemite Valley and its history, highlighting the climbing culture. The Academy Award-winning documentary Free Solo (2018) was filmed in Yosemite. The twelfth song on the 2018 Travis Scott album Astroworld is titled "Yosemite." The 2017 documentary The Dawn Wall was filmed in the park. Yosemite National Park is a playable map in the park management simulation game Jurassic World Evolution 2. The 2025 drama murder mystery series Untamed, which is mostly set in Yosemite, was filmed in the Canadian province of British Columbia.