Đerdap National Park (Serbian: Национални парк Ђердап / Nacionalni park Đerdap) is located along the right side of the Danube River, starting at Golubac Fortress (Serbian: Голубачки град / Golubački grad) and ending near the dam at Novi Sip, Serbia. The park was created in 1974 and covers an area of 63,786.5 hectares (157,620 acres). The park's management office is in the town of Donji Milanovac, which is on the Danube River. On the opposite side of the river in Romania is Parcul Natural Porțile de Fier.

In July 2020, the larger area around the national park was named a UNESCO Global Geopark, becoming the first protected area in Serbia to receive this designation. In addition to the Iron Gates Gorge, the geopark includes parts of the Miroč and Kučaj mountain ranges, covering a total area of 1,330 square kilometers (510 square miles).

Geography

Đerdap National Park is known for its natural beauty, especially the Đerdap gorge, also called the Iron Gate. This grand entrance is located on the southern slopes of the Carpathian Mountains and is home to the longest and largest river system in former Yugoslavia.

The Đerdap gorge is about 100 km (62 mi) long, stretching from Golubac to Tekija. It is made up of four smaller gorges—Gornja klisura, Gospođin vir, Veliki and Mali kazan, and Sipska klisura—separated by ravines. In Gospođin vir, the river reaches a depth of 82 m (269 ft), one of the deepest points in the world. The cliffs in Kazan are approximately 300 m (980 ft) high, while the riverbed there narrows to 150 m (490 ft).

The area has mountainous terrain, including the Miroč mountain, and features caves, pits, gorges, depressions, springs, and lakes. Scenic viewpoints, such as Veliki štrbac and Mali štrbac on Miroč, offer panoramic views of nearby mountains in Serbia and Romania. A viewpoint called Greben was named "the most beautiful hill in the Balkans" at a 1900 geology meeting. Another notable spot is the hill of Kapetan Mišin breg above the Danube. The Đerdap is the longest breakthrough-type gorge in Europe.

The Blederija River flows from two karstic springs at an altitude of 389 m (1,276 ft) under the Topla Bara peak. These springs are 5 m (16 ft) apart, with one having a water temperature of about 8 °C (46 °F) and the other a constant 17 °C (63 °F). The river forms cascades in a forested area before creating a waterfall 8 m (26 ft) tall. The river's flow varies, and during the 2014 floods in Southeast Europe, it caused flooding in its lower valley. Caves and a scenic viewpoint near the waterfall, once part of a medieval town, are nearby.

The waterfall is 4 km (2.5 mi) from the village of Reka, 12 km (7.5 mi) from Brza Palanka, and 31 km (19 mi) from Kladovo. Local folklore says water fairies bathe under the waterfall. The valley is known for producing high-quality honey, and the surrounding area has many animals, including deer and wild boar. Two protected hunting areas, Vratna and Ploče, are nearby.

The Blederija River flows southeast, joining the Sokolovica and Suvaja rivers. After merging with the Ravna reka, it flows into the Danube. The area is now heavily forested and sparsely populated. However, during the Roman era, soldiers built a road through the valley as a shortcut between modern-day Donji Milanovac and Brza Palanka. This road was later replaced by Emperor Trajan’s route through the Iron Gate gorge.

Name

Both Đerdap and its old Serbian name, Demir-kapija, have Turkish origins. The name Demir-kapija means "iron gate" in Turkish, and this translation is used in many other languages to describe the gorge. The name Đerdap comes from the Turkish word "girdap," which means whirlpool or a spinning water movement.

Power plants

The national park area includes many important features: a wide variety of plant and animal life, beautiful landscapes, cultural and historical monuments, and man-made attractions such as Lake Đerdap, an artificial lake covering 253 km (98 sq mi). This is the largest lake in Serbia and was created by building the Iron Gate I Hydroelectric Power Station, also called "Đerdap." The power plant was completed in 1972 and was the fourth-largest in the world at that time, according to the plant’s staff. It was a joint project between Yugoslavia and Romania. Many people from the nearby town of Kladovo work at the power plant. In 1980, the plant produced more than 7 terawatt-hours of electricity. Later, a second power plant, called Iron Gate II Hydroelectric Power Station or "Đerdap" II, was built between 1977 and 1984, along with Lake Đerdap II, which covers 92 km (36 sq mi). This made the first power plant known as "Đerdap I."

Plans for a third power plant, called "Đerdap III," were also made. Unlike traditional power plants with new dams, this plan would use the existing Lake Đerdap to generate electricity. The project was proposed near Donji Milanovac, in the Pesače area of the park, and was first planned in the late 1960s, when "Đerdap I" was still under construction. Some early work was done in the 1970s near Debelo Brdo, but the project was abandoned due to economic challenges in Yugoslavia during the late 1970s. The plan involved using pumps to lift water from Lake Đerdap to two reservoirs, Pesača and Brodica, at a height of 68 m (223 ft). These reservoirs could hold 588,000,000 m³ (2.08 × 10⁹ cu ft) of water and would only be used during times of high electricity production. During dry or winter months, "Đerdap II" would operate as a traditional hydroelectric plant, using stored water that would fall 400 m (1,300 ft) to power turbines. Building the facility along the Danube River would be less expensive than building it on land, as in thermal power plants. The plant would have twice the capacity of "Đerdap I" or the Kostolac thermal plant and could produce 2,400 megawatts of electricity. This would meet Serbia’s current energy needs and make the country an electricity exporter. Because of how it would generate power, it would not harm the park’s ecosystem.

Wildlife

The park is home to about 1,100 plant species. These include ancient species from the Tertiary period, such as Turkish hazel, walnut tree, European yew, largeleaf linden, downy oak, and European holly. The Đerdap’s tulip (Tulipa hungarica Borbás) became extinct after a reservoir was built. Fifteen species are found only in the Balkans, including Pančić’s maple and certain types of heartsease, wild thyme, and meadow fescue. Other plants unique to the Carpathian region include sweet carrot and Seseli rigidum. Internationally protected plants in the area include floating fern, Fritillaria degeniana, water caltrop, Bulbophyllum loroglossum, and cat grass.

The park contains 57 forest communities, 40 of which are ancient species from the Tertiary period. These include Turkish hazel, Balkan beech, Oriental beech, European bladdernut, Balkan maple, and common walnut.

The park also supports 150 bird species.

In December 2018, a group of Dalmatian pelicans was seen near the lake close to a power plant. These birds typically live near the Danube Delta, and they had not been seen in the Đerdap area since 1914. The pelicans left soon but returned in January 2019. Scientists observed them nesting in the area during the nesting season, leading to a survey in June 2021. This confirmed that pelicans had returned to nest in the region after more than 100 years. The survey also found that other rare or previously extinct bird species live in the area. Nesting pairs of white-winged tern, which had disappeared from central Serbia, were seen just south of the park. The only second nesting site of yellow-legged gull in Serbia was found just north of the park. Nests of these gulls had not been seen in Serbia since around 1900. Other birds spotted include European roller, woodchat shrike, booted eagle, common tern, and greylag goose.

In the 2020s, the park had a stable population of 10 to 12 Eurasian lynx, out of an estimated total of 40 to 60 lynx in all of Serbia.

Human history

The national park contains many natural and cultural features that are protected by a special program. Lepenski Vir is an archaeological site that is 11,500 years old and has important evidence of settlements and the lives of people from the Mesolithic and Neolithic periods. Lepenski Vir was found in 1967 by Dragoslav Srejović. Between 1965 and 1971, over 30 sites were discovered, dating from the Mesolithic to the Late Middle Ages. Around 800 BC, the area was part of a path used by the Triballi, Dacians, and Autariates. Romans arrived in the region in the first century BC. Đerdap was part of the Roman Empire’s border and lay along the western part of the Via Militaris road. Some parts of this road still remain today. In 105 AD, Roman Emperor Trajan built Trajan’s Bridge, parts of which, including the Tabula Traiana, still survive. A Roman fortress called Diana was also located in Kladovo. In total, there are 4 cultural monuments and 19 archaeological discoveries. A major medieval site is the Golubac fortress, where many items were found, such as pottery, iron tools, hatchets, pickaxes, spears, and bolts. Near the fortress are the remains of a Turkish bath and a memorial drinking fountain honoring Zawisza the Black, a Polish knight who died defending the fortress during the 1428 Siege of Golubac.

The region is known for many myths that developed over time. Two well-known stories include one about a small creature with a devil’s face, goat ears and legs, a long white beard, and a conical hat. This creature lives in the Danube River’s whirlpools and appears only at night. It rises from the water to drown people swimming or those who fall off boats. Another myth describes "beluga," a giant sturgeon that rises from the riverbed to attack people.

There are 27 settlements within the park, with a total population of 35,000 people.

Protection

Đerdap has been a national park since 1974. It is also recognized as an Important Bird Area and an Important Plant Area. In 2020, it was officially named a European Geopark and became Serbia’s 11th Ramsar site. The Ramsar protected area includes the entire national park and adds Mala Vrbica, an Important Bird Area located outside the park. Wetlands formed after a man-made lake was created. This lake raised the water levels underground, leading to frequent flooding in nearby areas.

Tourism

Đerdap National Park has become one of the most visited areas in Serbia, especially after the dam was built and a large lake formed. The gorge and the hydroelectric power plant can be reached from Belgrade and other cities located downstream. The park includes several tourist attractions with hotels and other facilities that provide rest, swimming, and guided tours of cultural, historical, and natural sites. Although the Danube River is polluted compared to other places worldwide, fishing remains a popular activity. Some catfish caught in the river have weighed more than 100 kg (220 lb).