Fruška Gora (Serbian Cyrillic: Фрушка гора; Hungarian: Tarcal-hegység) is a mountain located in Syrmia. Most of the mountain is in Serbia, and its western edge reaches into eastern Croatia. The part of the mountain in Serbia is the country's oldest national park. It is sometimes called the Jewel of Serbia because of its well-preserved landscape and protection efforts. It is also known as the Serbian Mount Athos because it is home to many historical Serbian Orthodox monasteries.

Name

The mountain is called Fruška Gora in Serbian (pronounced [frûʃkaː ɡǒra], Фрушка гора), Tarcal (also Almus-hegy or Árpatarló) in Hungarian, Frankenwald in German, and Alma Mons in Latin. In Medieval Greek, it was known as Frangochoria.

The name comes from the old Serbian word "Fruzi," which is based on the singular form "Frug." The adjective "Fruški" is used to describe the Frankish people. In English, "Fruška Gora" means "Frankish mountain," referring to a historical event. The mountain acted as a natural border during Frankish military actions in the area.

During the Roman Empire, the mountain was called Alma Mons, meaning "fertile mountain." Records show that during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus (276–282), grapevines were first planted on the mountain. Probus was born in nearby Sirmium.

Geography

The mountain is a natural geological formation made up of rocks from many different time periods. It was once an island when the Pannonian Sea existed. To the north, the mountain is next to the Danube River, and to the south, it leads into the Syrmian lowlands. The mountain extends about 80 kilometers (50 miles) from east to west and 15 kilometers (9.3 miles) from north to south. Its highest point is Crveni Čot, which reaches 539 meters (1,768 feet) above sea level.

Vineyards

Fruška Gora separates Syrmia into two different areas: Wine Syrmia (the upper or mountainous part) and Swine Syrmia (the lower or flat part). The slopes of Fruška Gora became one of Hungary’s most important vineyards starting in the 15th century. The golden era of wine-making on Fruška Gora began after 1699, following the Treaty of Karlowitz, when the Ottomans were driven out of the region, and lasted until the late 19th century.

In Sremski Karlovci, a special dessert wine called bermet is made. It has a protected label that shows it is from this area. Historical records mention that boxes of bermet were used as gifts by Serbs to gain certain rights from Austrian empress Maria Theresa. The wine was served at the courts of Russia and Britain and was listed on the Titanic’s wine menu.

The slopes of Fruška Gora are ideal for growing grapes, and winemakers produce Traminer, Riesling, and other wines in the region. After communism ended, the Serbian Orthodox Church received 10,000 hectares of land that had been taken from them during the communist era.

National park

The national park of Fruška Gora was established in 1960 and spans an area of 266.72 km² (102.98 sq mi). It is the oldest modern national park in Serbia.

A wide variety of ancient animal remains are preserved in the park, and nearly 90% of the area is covered by forests. The main tree species include linden, oak, and beech. Linden forests are the most concentrated in Europe. Over time, linden trees became the dominant species, replacing previously larger oak forests, which are considered the original vegetation of Fruška Gora. Altogether, 1,500 plant species live in the park, with 200 of them protected. There are also 400 species of fungi. Some Pannonian plant species found in the park include Tatar dock (Crambe tataria), broadleaf wild leek, and Hungarian leopard's-bane. About 30 species of orchids grow in the park.

In 2016, large-scale tree cutting occurred in the park, one of the largest in the mountain’s recorded history. Over 10 hectares (25 acres) of forest were removed. The park administration stated that native oak trees would be planted in their place. However, no planting occurred, and instead, a dense growth of black locust shrubs developed. The administration later claimed that oak trees were planted. In the spring of 2019, aggressive cutting continued without proper notifications about what was being removed or by whom. This damaged hiking paths and orienteering markers. Some cutting areas were not secured, and mistakes occurred, such as cutting beech trees instead of oak trees as listed in plans. Environmentalists, regular visitors, and recreational athletes reported that the cutting was the most severe they had seen.

Timber removed from the park was sold by the administration. They explained that the action was part of a planned effort to address the park’s economic needs, as government funding for the park is limited. They claimed that trees would be replanted later because the cut trees were old. Members of the planning commission stated that more trees should have been cut, as 80% of the forest is over 80 years old. Only 3% of the park’s area (about 800 hectares or 2,000 acres) is strictly protected, located at the Papratski Dol site. Trees were cut near this protected area, clearing the surrounding land. Citizens criticized the park for being treated like a tree farm, arguing that protected forests should not be used for logging. The park director admitted he did not know the exact number of trees cut or planted, but official records from 2018 show that 100,000 trees were cut, while only 50,000 seedlings were planted. The park’s 2019 plan allocated nearly 100 times more money for cutting trees than for planting new ones. In 2020, 60,000 new trees were planned to be planted to celebrate the park’s 60th anniversary.

By the 2010s, rapeseed became the main cultivated plant on the foothills and surrounding fields of the mountain. In March 2020, it was announced that saffron was discovered on the mountain. About 20 saffron species exist in Serbia, but none had been found on Fruška Gora before. The discovered species is the woodland crocus, which was found in only one location but has since spread to thousands of individual plants.

Beech forests in Papratski Do and Ravne on Fruška Gora, along with beech forests in Tara and Kopaonik national parks, were submitted for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe" in May 2020. The nomination was rejected because Serbian laws allow logging on areas up to 5 hectares (12 acres), while UNESCO permits logging only on areas no larger than 1 hectare (2.5 acres). It was announced that Serbia would change its rules to allow parts of Fruška Gora to be included in the site by 2023.

The park is home to protected insect species, including the Balkan goldenring, certain dragonflies and hoverflies, and the Hungarian ground beetle, which has gone extinct in other parts of Europe. It also supports 13 amphibian species and 11 reptiles, 14 of which are protected, such as the fire salamander and European adder.

The park is home to 211 bird species. The eastern imperial eagle, a symbol of Fruška Gora, now has only 2 or 3 breeding pairs left. There are 60 mammal species, 17 of which are protected, including the edible dormouse, European pine marten, European polecat, and Mediterranean water shrew. Of the 30 bat species in Serbia, 15 live on Fruška Gora, and all are strictly protected.

In January 2018, additional mouflons were introduced to the park for the first time since the 1960s. Thirty animals were relocated from Slovakia, increasing the total number of mouflons in the park to 70. European fallow deer were also reintroduced. On March 29, 2022, five European bison were reintroduced to a prepared habitat on the mountain. One bull and four cows were transported from the Czech Republic and Poland’s Białowieża Forest reserve. It is estimated that the last bison in Serbia was hunted around 1800. The male bison, named Đuka by public vote, fell ill and died on October 12, 2023. A post-mortem revealed several inflammatory diseases and a major injury to his rib cage. Foul play was ruled out, and the injury was likely caused by another animal or a falling tree during a severe storm in July.

History

There are signs that people lived in this area as far back as the Neolithic period. Before the Romans arrived, the Illyrians and Celts lived here. In 31 AD, the Romans took control of the region and added it to the Pannonia province. The Danube River marked the northern edge of the Roman Empire, known as the limes. On the northern side of the mountain, the Romans built several border fortresses.

During the Early Middle Ages, the area was home to the Quadi, Huns, Goths, Gepids, Slavs, and Avars. The Franks drove out the Huns, Avars, Gepids, and Lombards, creating the southern border of the Frankish Empire. This action eventually gave the mountain its name.

Later, the Bulgarians, Pechenegs, and Hungarians lived in the region. In the 11th century, when Christianity split into Catholicism and Orthodoxy, both groups built churches here. A significant group of medieval Serbian monasteries was established on the mountain.

Starting in the 19th century, during the Austro-Hungarian period, cities grew along with trade and crafts. Settlements on the mountain developed, following traditional folk designs. Two notable settlements, Sremski Karlovci and Irig, are known for their architectural traditions. Sremski Karlovci became a center for Serbian political and cultural life in Austria and later Austria-Hungary. Irig was one of the most developed settlements in the Syrmian region since the 18th century.

Over time, the area was part of many empires and states, including the Hun Empire, Ostrogothic Kingdom, Gepid Kingdom, Lombard state, Byzantine Empire, Avar Khaganate, Frankish Empire, Bulgarian Empire, Lower Pannonia, Kingdom of Hungary, Ottoman Empire, Habsburg monarchy, Austrian Empire, Austria-Hungary, the State of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs, Kingdom of Serbia, Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, Kingdom of Yugoslavia, Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, Serbia and Montenegro, and now the Republic of Serbia.

During World War II, the Axis powers occupied the area. Fruška Gora became an important center for the Partisan resistance movement. A liberated territory was established in this region.

On March 28, 2003, police discovered that former Serbian president Ivan Stambolić had been killed by eight men on the mountain. At that time, Slobodan Milošević was still in power. It was later confirmed that Milošević had ordered Stambolić's murder.

Archaeology

Edreš Hill was used as a place to gather materials for tools by ancient people. Many Roman remains have been found, such as the fortress Acumincum near Slankamen and Bassianae, a Roman town near Donji Petrovci. The town had walls built with ramparts and square towers. Inside the walls, items such as heating and sewage systems, painted walls with frescoes, and floor mosaics were discovered. In 1952, a Roman vault was found in the area of Bikić Do, containing 11,500 coins, including those from the time of Constantine the Great.

Later attractions include the Tower of Vrdnik, the only remaining part of a medieval fortress, the Rivica Watermill, and Stražilovo, where the remains of the poet Branko Radičević were moved back from Vienna in 1883.

Population and settlements

In 1991, the population of the Fruška Gora region was 114,263 people. The area includes 23 villages and several towns, which are situated near the mountain. These towns are: Šid, Beočin, Petrovaradin, Sremska Kamenica, Sremski Karlovci, and Irig.

Monasteries

There are more than 12 Serbian Orthodox monasteries on Fruška Gora. In the 1700s, monks from Rača Monastery in the Bajina Bašta municipality by the Drina River moved to live in these monasteries. These monks were known for writing and creating beautifully decorated manuscripts.

In 1990, the Fruška Gora Monasteries were declared Monuments of Culture of Exceptional Importance by the government. They are protected by the state.

Old Ottoman records list 35 monasteries, but only 16 remain active today. Because there are so many monasteries in one area, Fruška Gora is sometimes called the "Serbian Mount Athos." In 2003, the Holy Synod of the Serbian Orthodox Church officially named Fruška Gora a "Holy Mountain."

• Beočin – The founding date is unknown. It was first mentioned in Turkish records from 1566/1567.
• Bešenovo – According to legend, it was founded by Serbian King Dragutin at the end of the 13th century. The earliest historical records about the monastery date to 1545.
• Divša – It is believed that it was founded by Despot Jovan Branković in the late 15th century. The earliest historical records about the monastery date to the second half of the 16th century.
• Grgeteg – According to tradition, it was founded by Zmaj Ognjeni Vuk (Despot Vuk Grgurević) in 1471. The earliest historical records about the monastery date to 1545/1546. Icons were painted by Uroš Predić.
• Jazak – The monastery was founded in 1736.
• Krušedol – The monastery was founded between 1509 and 1516 by Bishop Maksim (Despot Đorđe Branković) and his mother Angelina. It is the resting place of King Milan I of Serbia.
• Kuveždin – Traditionally, its foundation is ascribed to Stefan Štiljanović. The first reliable records of it date to 1566/1569.
• Mala Remeta – The foundation is traditionally ascribed to Serbian King Dragutin. The earliest historical records relating to the monastery date to the middle of the 16th century.
• Novo Hopovo – According to tradition, it was built by the Despots of the Branković dynasty. The first reliable mention of the monastery dates to 1641. Dositej Obradović became a monk in this monastery.
• Privina Glava – According to legends, it was founded by a man named Priva in the 12th century. The earliest historical records about the monastery date to 1566/1567.
• Petkovica – According to tradition, it was founded by Despotess Jelena, the widow of Stefan Štiljanović. The earliest historical records mentioning the monastery date to 1566/1567.
• Rakovac – According to a legend written in 1704, it was founded by a man named Raka, a courtier of Despot Jovan Branković. The legend states that Raka erected the monastery in 1498. The earliest historical records mentioning the monastery date to 1545/1546.
• Staro Hopovo – According to tradition, it was founded by Bishop Maksim (Despot Đorđe Branković). The first reliable mention of the monastery dates back to 1545/1546.
• Šišatovac – The foundation of the monastery is ascribed to refugee monks from the Serbian monastery of Žiča. Reliable facts about the monastery’s history date back to the mid-16th century.
• Velika Remeta – Traditionally, its founding is linked to King Dragutin at the end of the 13th century. The earliest historical records about the monastery date to 1562.
• Vrdnik-Ravanica – The exact date of its founding is unknown. Records indicate that the church was built during the time of Metropolitan Serafim Jovanović in the second half of the 16th century. It holds the reliquary of Prince Lazar and his partial relics.

Gallery

• A view of Fruška Gora from the south
• A satellite image of Fruška Gora
• Ledinci Lake
• A view of Fruška Gora from Subotica Boulevard in Novi Sad
• Fruška Gora mountain