Kopaonik (Serbian Cyrillic: Копаоник; Albanian: Kopaoniku) is a mountain range found in Kosovo and Serbia. The tallest point in this mountain range is Pančić's Peak, which has a height of 2,017 meters (6,617 feet). In 1981, the central area of the Kopaonik plateau was named a national park. Today, the park covers an area of 121.06 kilometers (46.74 square miles).

On the sides of the mountain range is the Kopaonik ski resort, which is one of the largest in Southeastern Europe. The resort has 25 ski lifts that can handle 32,000 skiers each hour.

Geography

The Kopaonik mountains extend about 75 km (47 mi) from north to south. The southern edge of the mountain is in Kosovo, between the Llapi and Sitnica rivers, while the northern edge is marked by the Jošanica river in Serbia. It is part of the Raška region in Serbia. The Kopaonik mountain massif (Kopaoničke planine) includes the mountains of Kopaonik, Željin, Goč, and Stolovi. The highest point is Pančić's Peak, which reaches 2,017 m (6,617 ft).

The Kopaonik mountains have a subalpine climate (Köppen climate classification: Dfc), with cool summers and long, cold winters that bring heavy snowfall. Snow typically falls from November to April, and the area experiences about 200 sunny days each year.

Between 1978 and 1985, the Kopaonik region was struck by five earthquakes with Mercalli intensities ranging from VII to VIII. The 1983 earthquake had an intensity of VIII (Severe) and impacted seven villages. It left 200 people without homes and damaged 1,200 buildings and homes.

Name

Kopaonik was first called Silver Mountain (Serbian: Сребрна планина) because of its valuable mines. This name was also used by the Romans, Venetians, and Ottomans. Its current name, originally Kopalnik, is linked to mining activities. The name comes from the Serbian word "kopati," which means to dig.

History

Kopaonik has a rich historical heritage. The oldest findings date back to the Paleolithic era and show that people in the area used metals. Important locations include Bela Stena, Veliki Krš, and Jasova Bačija. Neolithic remains were found at sites such as Gornji Kaznovići (Rosulja and Lug), Greblje, Tomovićko Brdo, and the Neolithic range of Beglučka.

Mining became more advanced during the Classical antiquity period. The Romans started digging the first proper mines and built nearby settlements. Remains from this time include the archaeo-metallurgic complex Zajačak and the site of Dobrinac in Rvati. Dobrinac dates to the 3rd or 4th century AD and was the administrative center for mining and metalworking on the mountain’s western slope.

The area remained an important mining center during the Middle Ages. By the 14th century, it became the main mining region in Serbia. Emperor Dušan visited the Silver Mountain in August 1336. In 1412, despot Stefan Lazarević created a law about mining that mentioned gold, silver, iron, copper, lead, and zinc mines in the area. At that time, the mountain already had settlements of Saxons, Kotorans, and Ragusians. Old churches and monasteries, such as Đurđevi Stupovi, Studenica Monastery, Sopoćani, and Gradac Monastery, are also present. Several early and medieval fortresses built by Serbian rulers can be found locally, with the nearest medieval castle being Maglič.

During the Ottoman period, starting in the 15th century, mining gradually stopped. However, thermal springs were developed, and Turkish baths were built. Remains of one such bath are found in the modern spa of Jošanička Banja.

The first scientific study of Kopaonik’s plant life occurred between 1836 and 1838 when geologist Ami Boué visited the mountain. He collected plant samples, which are now kept in the Imperial Natural History Museum in Vienna. Botanist Josif Pančić made the greatest scientific contributions to understanding Kopaonik’s plant life. He first explored the mountain in 1851, followed by 18 additional expeditions.

During World War II, both the Yugoslav Partisans and Chetniks were active in the region. Chetnik leader Dragutin Keserović, commander of the Rasina Corps, conducted operations near Kopaonik. This led the Waffen-SS to launch Operation Kopaonik to eliminate Keserović and his unit. The operation failed and resulted in the deaths of 690 civilians, including many people killed in a church in Kriva Reka.

In the mid-1950s, parts of southern Kopaonik were transferred from NR Serbia to the autonomous province of Kosovo and Metohija. In 1959, Leposavić was added to the province.

To honor Josif Pančić, marking the 100th anniversary of his first expedition, the highest peak was renamed from Milanov Vrh to Pančić’s Peak in 1951. A mausoleum was built on the peak, and the remains of Pančić and his wife were moved there. Their coffins were made from Serbian spruce, a tree species Pančić discovered.

National park

In 1981, because of its location, climate, forests, herbs, and areas for recreation, 121.06 km (46.74 sq mi) of the mountain range were named a national park.

The national park is located on a fairly flat area at about 1,700 m (5,577 ft) above sea level. This central part of the Kopaonik mountain range is called Suvo Rudište. It is surrounded by high mountain peaks. To the north and northwest of Suvo Rudište lies Banjski Kopaonik, where the Jošanička Banja spa is located. The spa’s water springs reach temperatures of 88 °C (190 °F). Below Suvo Rudište is the valley of the Samokovska River, which has steep slopes, many rapids, waterfalls, and deep gorges. Kopaonik has more than 200 sunny days each year and over 160 days covered in snow. The Jelovarnik waterfall, the third tallest in Serbia, is also located here.

The park has several natural viewpoints, including Suvo Rudište, Gobelja, Karaman, Kukavica, Vučak, and Treska. On clear days, distant mountains in Montenegro, Bulgaria, and Albania can be seen from these spots.

There are 13 areas within the park that are protected as strict nature reserves: Barska Reka, Bele Stene, Vučak, Gobelja, Duboka, Jankove Bare, Jelak, Jelovarnik, Kozje Stene, Mrkonje, Metođe, Samokovska Reka, and Suvo Rudište. The Jankove Bare reserve is in the Ravni Kopaonik (Flat Kopaonik) area, at an altitude of 1,420 meters (4,660 ft), in the Rečica creek valley. It is protected to preserve a mire ecosystem, which is home to rare, endangered, and unique plants, amphibians, and birds, such as the peregrine falcon, common buzzard, and common redstart.

Soil erosion is a problem in the park because there is a lot of logging and deforestation.

Ecology

Kopaonik’s plant life includes many species that are native to the area, such as Balkan beech, fir, spruce, yew, several types of maple, pine, and oak. Most of the forested land in the park consists of deciduous forests and native coniferous woodlands. Other trees found in the area include willow, poplar, common hornbeam, durmast oak, and Turkey oak. In total, there are 1,600 plant species in the park, with 200 of them growing only on Kopaonik. The park also has over 200 species of fungi. Kopaonik is especially important for biodiversity because 11.9% of the high mountain endemic species in the Balkans live there. Some plants found only on Kopaonik include Kopaonik’s houseleek, Kopaonik’s violet, and Pančić’s bittercress. Other endemic plants include sea thrift, Balkan docks (Rumex balcanicus), Pancicia serbica, Blečić’s columbine (Aquilegia blecicii), Bosnian marsh orchid, Bulgarian achillea (Achillea bulgarica), Alyssum, aconite, and Yugoslav bell (Edrianthus jugoslavicus).

The park has several "botanical monuments," which are very old and large trees that are still alive. Examples include the fir tree called "of the hundred elbows" in Samokovska Reka, a spruce in Gobeljska Reka, and three mountain sycamores in Kriva Reka.

Beech forests in Kopaonik, along with beech forests in the national parks of Fruška Gora and Tara, were submitted for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage Site Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe in May 2020. The nomination was rejected because Serbian laws allow shelterwood cutting on areas up to 5 hectares (12 acres), while UNESCO only permits cutting in areas no larger than 1 hectare (2.5 acres), and even that must occur in the most protected zones.

The park’s animal life is also diverse, but the number of species depends on the quality of their habitats. An endemic butterfly, the Balkan postman, lives on the mountain. There are 175 bird species in the park, including protected ones like woodpeckers and thrushes. Other birds include rock partridge, scops owl, red-backed shrike, and wood lark.

Major mammals in the area include wild boar and wild cat. Red deer went extinct on Kopaonik in 1856 but were reintroduced in the Kukavica area in 2021 as part of a larger project to bring them back to central Serbia.

In the part of the mountain located in Kosovo, animals such as golden jackal, golden eagle, grey wolf, roe deer, and wildcat have been seen.

Economy

In the Kosovar part of the Kopaonik mountains, specifically in the Shala e Bajgorës region, Kosovo's largest wind farm is located. The Bajgora Wind Farm is found in the southern foothills of the Kopaonik mountains at an elevation of 1,800 m (5,900 ft). It has a capacity of 105.6 MW, which makes up about 10% of Kosovo's total power capacity.

Transportation

Kopaonik has good connections to the main transportation routes in Serbia. The central area of Kopaonik, which includes the tourist center and ski slopes, is connected to the Ibar highway. The closest international airport is located in Niš. A public heliport is found in a military base half a mile north of the resort. In 2019, the longest artificial ski slope in Europe opened at the resort.