Exmoor is a large area of hilly open land in west Somerset and north Devon, England. It is named after the River Exe, which begins in the center of the area, two miles northwest of Simonsbath. Exmoor is more precisely described as the area of an ancient royal hunting forest that was officially measured between 1815 and 1818 as covering 18,810 acres (7,610 hectares or 76.1 square kilometers). The Exmoor National Park includes the Brendon Hills, the East Lyn Valley, the Vale of Porlock, and 55 kilometers (34 miles) of the Bristol Channel coast. The total area of the Exmoor National Park is 692.8 square kilometers (267.5 square miles), with 71% located in Somerset and 29% in Devon.
The upland area of Exmoor is made up of sedimentary rocks formed during the Devonian and early Carboniferous periods, with Triassic and Jurassic rocks found on lower slopes. These rocks form cliffs along the coast, which are carved by ravines and waterfalls. The area was recognized as a heritage coast in 1991. The highest point on Exmoor is Dunkery Beacon, which stands at 519 meters (1,703 feet) and is also the highest point in Somerset. The land supports lowland heath, ancient woodland, and blanket mire, which provide homes for rare plants and animals. There have also been sightings of the Beast of Exmoor, a mysterious cat said to live in the area. Several locations in Exmoor have been designated as Nature Conservation Review and Geological Conservation Review sites.
Evidence of human activity in Exmoor dates back to the Mesolithic period, when people hunted and gathered food. This evolved into farming and mining for minerals during the Bronze and Iron Ages. Remains of standing stones, cairns, and bridges can still be seen today. The royal forest was granted a charter in the 13th century, though records from the Domesday Book mention foresters who managed the area. During the Middle Ages, sheep farming was common, with a system called agistment that allowed livestock to graze on the land. Today, the area is used for recreation and tourism.
National character area
Exmoor has been named a National Character Area (No. 145) by Natural England, the organization in charge of protecting England's natural environment. Other nearby natural areas are The Culm to the southwest, the Devon Redlands to the south, and the Vale of Taunton and Quantock Fringes to the east.
Exmoor National Park
Exmoor was named a National Park in 1954, following the 1949 National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act. The Exmoor National Park is mostly a highland area where people live in small villages and hamlets. The largest towns are Porlock, Dulverton, Lynton, and Lynmouth, which together hold nearly 40 percent of the park's population. Lynton and Lynmouth are part of the same parish and are linked by the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway.
Exmoor was once a royal forest and hunting area, covering 18,810 acres (7,610 hectares). It was sold in 1818. Some parts of the Exmoor National Park are labeled as Sites of Special Scientific Interest because of their unique plants and animals. This status provides legal protection against harm or destruction. In 1993, an environmentally protected area was created in Exmoor. It is known for being an excellent place for stargazing. In 2011, it became Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserve, as recognized by the International Dark-Sky Association.
Geology
Exmoor is an upland area mainly made up of sedimentary rocks from the Devonian and early Carboniferous periods. The name "Devonian" comes from Devon, as rocks from this time were first studied and described there. Except for a group of Triassic and Jurassic rocks found between Porlock and Timberscombe and from Minehead to Yarde (within Exmoor National Park but outside the main moor area), all the solid rocks of Exmoor belong to the Exmoor Group. This group includes a variety of gritstones, sandstones, slates, shales, limestone, siltstones, and mudstones. Quartz and iron minerals can be found in outcrops and subsoil. The Glenthorne area shows the Trentishoe Member (formerly called "Formation") of the Hangman Sandstone Formation (formerly called "Group"). The Hangman Sandstone represents the Middle Devonian rocks in North Devon and Somerset. These unusual freshwater deposits in the Hangman Grits were mostly formed in desert-like conditions. Since this area of Britain was not covered by glaciers, the plateau has remained an ancient landform. The bedrock and newer soil layers are partly covered by moorland, which grows in wet, acidic soil.
Geography
Exmoor has 55 kilometers (34 miles) of coastline. The highest sea cliff on mainland Britain, if a cliff is considered to have a slope steeper than 60 degrees, is Great Hangman near Combe Martin, standing 318 meters (1,043 feet) tall, with a cliff side measuring 250 meters (820 feet). Its matching cliff, Little Hangman, which is 200 meters (656 feet) high, marks the edge of Exmoor. The coastal hills reach their highest point at Culbone Hill, which is 414 meters (1,358 feet) tall.
Exmoor’s woodlands sometimes extend to the shoreline, especially between Porlock and Foreland Point, where they form the longest stretch of coastal woodland in England and Wales. The Exmoor Coastal Heaths are protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest because they have many different types of plants.
The rocky headlands, deep valleys, waterfalls, and tall cliffs along Exmoor’s coast earned it the recognition of a heritage coast in 1991. This dramatic coastline, with its large waterfalls and caves, is a popular place for climbing and exploring. The cliffs offer one of the longest and most remote seacliff paths in the UK. The South West Coast Path, which is 1,014 kilometers (630 miles) long and the longest National Trail in England and Wales, begins at Minehead and follows the entire coastline of Exmoor. Small harbors are located at Lynmouth, Porlock Weir, and Combe Martin. These harbors were once important for trade but are now mainly used for recreation, such as sailing and fishing. The Valley of Rocks, located beyond Lynton, is a dry valley that runs parallel to the sea and is covered by large rocks on its seaward side. Sexton’s Burrows forms a natural barrier that protects the harbor of Watermouth Bay.
The high ground on Exmoor is the source of many rivers and streams. There are about 483 kilometers (300 miles) of named rivers on Exmoor. The River Exe, after which Exmoor is named, begins at Exe Head near the village of Simonsbath, close to the Bristol Channel coast. It flows mostly southward, so most of its path is in Devon. The river reaches the sea at a wide, flooded valley on the south coast of Devon. Several smaller rivers that begin on Exmoor flow into the River Exe. The River Barle starts in northern Exmoor and joins the River Exe at Exebridge, Devon. Both the River Barle and its valley are protected as biological Sites of Special Scientific Interest. Another smaller river, the River Haddeo, flows from Wimbleball Lake into the River Exe.
Most other rivers that start on Exmoor flow north toward the Bristol Channel. These include the River Heddon, which runs along the western edge of Exmoor and reaches the North Devon coast at Heddon’s Mouth. The East and West Lyn rivers meet at Watersmeet, just east of Lynmouth. Hoar Oak Water is a river that flows from the moors and joins the East Lyn River at Watersmeet. The River Horner, also called Horner Water, begins near Luccombe and flows into Porlock Bay near Hurlstone Point. The River Mole starts on the south-western side of Exmoor and is the main river that flows into the River Taw, which moves northward from Dartmoor. Badgworthy Water is a small river that flows north to the coast and is linked to the Lorna Doone legends.
Climate
Exmoor shares a temperate climate with the rest of South West England, which is generally wetter and milder than other parts of England. The average yearly temperature at Simonsbath is 8.3 °C (46.9 °F), with changes throughout the day and across seasons. However, the sea helps reduce temperature extremes compared to other areas in the UK. January is the coldest month, with average low temperatures between 1 and 2 °C (34 and 36 °F). July and August are the warmest months, with average high temperatures around 21 °C (70 °F). December typically has the least sunshine, while June has the most. The south-west of England benefits from the influence of the Azores high-pressure system, which often moves north-eastward toward the UK during summer.
Clouds often form inland, especially near hills, which can reduce the amount of sunlight reaching the area. The average yearly sunshine is about 1,600 hours. Rainfall is usually linked to Atlantic low-pressure systems or rising warm air. In summer, the sun heats the land more than the sea, sometimes creating rain clouds. During this time, much of the rain comes from short showers and thunderstorms. Annual rainfall ranges from 800 mm (31 in) in the eastern part of the park to over 2,000 mm (79 in) at The Chains. On 16 August 1952, more than 225 mm (8.9 in) of rain fell at The Chains in a single day. This heavy rainfall, following an already wet summer, caused severe flooding in Lynmouth, resulting in 34 deaths and widespread damage to the town.
Snowfall varies greatly each year, with 23 days of snow on high moors and about 6 days on coastal areas. November to March have the highest average wind speeds, while June to August have the lightest winds. Winds mostly come from the south-west.
Two Met Office Weather stations, Liscombe and Nettlecombe, record climate data within Exmoor.
History
There is evidence that people lived in the area from the Mesolithic period and later. During the Neolithic period, people began to raise animals and grow crops on farmland cleared from forests, instead of relying only on hunting and gathering. It is likely that people started mining and melting minerals to create metal tools, weapons, and decorations during the late Neolithic period, and this practice continued into the Bronze and Iron Ages. An earthen ring at Parracombe is thought to be a Neolithic henge from 5000–4000 BC. Cow Castle, where White Water meets the River Barle, is an Iron Age fort located on the top of a cone-shaped hill.
Tarr Steps is a prehistoric (about 1000 BC) clapper bridge across the River Barle, located about 4 km (2.5 miles) southeast of Withypool and 6 km (4 miles) northwest of Dulverton. The stone slabs used in the bridge weigh up to 5 tonnes each. English Heritage has designated the bridge as a grade I listed building to recognize its historical and cultural importance. There is little evidence of Roman occupation except for two small forts on the coast. Lanacombe is a site with several standing stones and cairns, which are protected as ancient monuments. These stone settings range in height from 30 cm (12 inches) to 65 cm (26 inches). A group of Bronze Age stone cairns is closely linked to the standing stones.
Holwell Castle, located at Parracombe, was a Norman motte-and-bailey castle built to guard the intersection of east-west and north-south trade routes, helping people and goods move and supporting population growth. Other theories suggest the castle may have been built to collect taxes at the River Heddon crossing or to oversee silver mining near Combe Martin. The castle was 40 meters (131 feet) in diameter and 6.2 meters (20 feet) high above a rock-cut ditch that is 2.7 meters (9 feet) deep. It was constructed in the late 11th or early 12th century. The remains of the castle are still visible from a nearby footpath, but there is no public access to the site.
According to the late 13th-century Hundred Rolls, King Henry II of England (died 1189) gave William of Wrotham the role of steward of Exmoor. The terms "steward," "warden," and "forester" were used interchangeably to describe the king’s chief officer in charge of the royal forest.
The first recorded wardens were Dodo, Almer, and Godric, who were named in the Domesday Book (1086) as "foresters of Widepolla." Withypool was the ancient capital of the forest. The Denys family was connected to Ilchester and "Petherton." William of Wrotham, who died in 1217, served as steward of the Exmoor and North Petherton forests in Somerset. Walter and Robert were named as foresters of Exmoor when they witnessed a 13th-century grant to Forde Abbey. In 1276, jurors from Brushford manor complained about John de Camera in the Court of Exchequer, where he was described as a forester of Exmoor.
William Lucar of "Wythecomb," the brother of Elizabeth Lucar, worked as a forester under Henry VI between 1422 and 1461. William de Botreaux, 3rd Baron Botreaux, was appointed in 1435 as warden of the Exmoor and Neroche forests for life by Richard Duke of York. The Botreaux family owned the manor of Molland at the southern edge of Exmoor but likely lived mainly in North Cadbury, Somerset. On 10 May 1461, William Bourchier, 9th Baron FitzWarin, feudal baron of Bampton, was named by King Edward IV as Master Forester of the Exmoor and Neroche forests for life. Sir John Poyntz of Iron Acton, Gloucestershire, was warden or chief forester of Exmoor in 1568 when he brought a legal case in the Court of Exchequer against Henry Rolle, a powerful landowner in Exton, Hawkridge, and Withypool.
In 1608, Sir Hugh Pollard was named chief forester in a legal case involving his deputy, William Pincombe. James Butler, 1st Duke of Ormonde, was named Keeper of Exmoor Forest in 1660 and 1661. James Boevey worked as a forester in the 17th century. Sir Richard Acland (or possibly Sir Thomas Dyke Acland) was the last forester until 1818. One of the warden’s roles was Master of Staghounds, a position that continues today with the Master of the Devon and Somerset Staghounds. By 1820, the royal forest had been divided. A quarter of the forest, covering 10,262 acres (4,153 hectares), was sold to John Knight in 1818. This area now forms the Exmoor Parish, where the parish church is located in Simonsbath.
Wool trade
The parish of Exmoor Forest was part of the Hundred of Williton and Freemanners.
During the Middle Ages, sheep farming for the wool trade became the main part of the local economy. Wool was spun into thread on separate farms and collected by merchants to be woven, processed, dyed, and finished in busy towns like Dunster. Over time, the land was enclosed, and from the 17th century, larger estates were created, leading to the development of large, regularly shaped fields. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the commons were overfilled with livestock brought by farmers from outside the area, who paid to use the land. This caused disagreements about how many animals were allowed and led to the enclosure of more land. In the mid-17th century, James Boevey was the warden. The house he built at Simonsbath was the only one in the forest for 150 years. When the royal forest was sold in 1818, John Knight bought Simonsbath House and the nearby farm for £50,000. He worked to turn the royal forest into farmland. He and his family also built most of the large farms in the central part of the moor and constructed 35.4 km (22.0 mi) of paved roads to Simonsbath and a 46.7 km (29.0 mi) wall around his estate, much of which still exists today.
In the mid-19th century, a mine was built near the River Barle. The mine was first named Wheal Maria, then changed to Wheal Eliza. It operated as a copper mine from 1845 to 1854 and as an iron mine until 1857. However, mining activity on the site may have started as early as 1552. At Simonsbath, a restored Victorian water-powered sawmill, which was damaged during floods in 1992, has now been bought by the National Park and returned to working condition. It is now used to make footpath signs, gates, stiles, and bridges for different areas in the park.
Ecology
In addition to the Exmoor Coastal Heaths Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), two other areas are specifically protected. North Exmoor covers 12,005.3 hectares (29,666 acres) and includes the Dunkery Beacon, the Holnicote and Horner Water Nature Conservation Review sites, and the Chains Geological Conservation Review site. The Chains site is nationally important for its south-western lowland heath communities and for the changes in plant life from Ancient woodland to upland heath and blanket mire. It is also important for its breeding birds, its large population of the nationally rare heath fritillary (Mellicta athalia), its unique lichen life in woodlands, and its deep peat layers that help scientists study ancient plant pollen.
The South Exmoor SSSI is smaller, covering 3,132.7 hectares (7,741 acres) and includes the River Barle and its tributaries, which have submerged plants like alternate water-milfoil (Myriophyllum alterniflorum). Small areas of ancient woodland exist within the site, with sessile oak (Quercus petraea) as the most common tree. The shrub layer is sparse, and the ground has bracken, bilberry, and mosses. Heath areas support breeding birds such as whinchat (Saxicola rubetra) and European stonechat (Saxicola rubicola). Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe) are often seen near stone walls, while grasshopper warbler (Locustella naevia) breed in scrub and tall heath. Trees along moorland edges provide nesting spots for Lesser redpoll (Acanthis cabaret), common buzzard (Buteo buteo), and raven (Corvus corax).
Uncultivated heath and moorland cover about a quarter of Exmoor’s landscape. Some moors have grasses and sedges, while others are dominated by heather. Cultivated areas, such as the Brendon Hills, are located in the eastern part of the National Park. The area also includes 3,000 hectares (7,400 acres) of Forestry Commission woodland, with a mix of broad-leaved trees (oak, ash, and hazel) and conifers. Horner Woodlands and Tarr Steps woodlands are notable examples. The country’s tallest beech tree, 350 meters (1,150 feet) above sea level, is found at Birch Cleave in Simonsbath, while beech trees in hedgebanks grow up to 490 meters (1,610 feet). Exmoor is home to two unique whitebeam species: Sorbus subcuneata and Sorbus 'Taxon D'. These woodlands support lichens, mosses, and ferns. Exmoor is the only place in the UK where the lichens Biatoridium delitescens, Rinodina fimbriata, and Rinodina flavosoralifera grow, with the last species found only on one tree.
In 2024, plans were announced to plant about 38,000 trees near the sea on Exmoor as part of a larger effort by the National Trust to plant over 100,000 trees in northern Devon to support Celtic rainforests. The nearly extinct Devon whitebeam, a tree found only in England’s West Country and Ireland, will be planted. This tree can reproduce without fertilization, and its fruit was once sold as "sorb apples" in Devon markets.
Sheep have grazed on Exmoor’s moors for over 3,000 years, shaping the landscape by eating grasses and heather. Traditional breeds include Exmoor Horn, Cheviot, Whiteface Dartmoor, and Greyface Dartmoor sheep. North Devon cattle are also raised in the area. Exmoor ponies roam freely on the moors and are a landrace, not a formal breed. They may be the closest living relatives to wild horses in Europe and are among the oldest pony breeds. Ponies are rounded up yearly for marking and health checks. In 1818, Sir Thomas Acland established the Acland Herd, now called the Anchor Herd, which still roams Exmoor. During World War II, the moor was used for training, and the pony population nearly disappeared, with only 50 surviving. Today, the ponies are classified as endangered, with only 390 breeding females in the UK. In 2006, a grant helped create the Exmoor Pony Centre at Ashwick, a former farm with 7 hectares (17 acres) of land and 56 hectares (140 acres) of moorland.
Red deer are common on Exmoor and can be seen on quiet hillsides, especially in the early morning. The Emperor of Exmoor, a red stag (Cervus elaphus), was Britain’s largest known wild land animal until it was killed in October 2010. The moor supports hundreds of bird and insect species, including merlin, peregrine falcon, Eurasian curlew, European stonechat, dipper, Dartford warbler, and ring ouzel. Black grouse and red grouse are now extinct on Exmoor, likely due to reduced habitat management and increased visitor activity.
The Beast of Exmoor is a mysterious cat reported to live in the area. Sightings began in the 1970s, but the creature became famous in 1983 when a farmer claimed over 100 sheep were killed by throat injuries. Royal Marines were deployed to search for the beast but found no evidence after six months. Descriptions of the creature vary from black to tan or dark grey. It may be a cougar or black leopard that escaped after a 1976 law banned keeping such animals outside zoos. In 2006, the British Big Cats Society claimed a skull found in Devon belonged to a puma, but the UK government stated there is no evidence of big cats living wild in England.
Government and politics
The National Park covers 71% of its area in Somerset and 29% in Devon. It has a population of 10,600 people who live there. The park was created in 1954 under a law passed in 1949 called the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act. About three-fourths of the park is owned by private individuals or groups, including many private estates. The largest landowners are the National Trust, which owns over 10% of the land, and the National Park Authority, which owns about 7%. Other parts of the park are owned by the Forestry Commission, the Crown Estate, and water companies. The largest private landowner is the Badgworthy Land Company, which represents hunting interests.
Since 1954, local government has been managed by district and county councils, which are still responsible for the well-being of the local community. Since 1997, the Exmoor National Park Authority, a "single purpose" authority focused on one main goal, has taken on some responsibilities. Its goal is to "protect and improve the natural beauty, wildlife, and cultural heritage of the National Parks" and to "help the public understand and enjoy the special qualities of the parks." This includes caring for historic sites and environments.
The National Park Authority receives 80% of its funding directly from the government. The Authority’s committee includes members from parish and county councils and six people chosen by the Secretary of State. The work is done by 80 staff members, including rangers, volunteers, and estate workers. These workers perform tasks such as maintaining trails, trimming hedges, building fences, controlling weeds, and managing habitats on National Park Authority land. There are ongoing discussions between the authority and farmers about managing special areas of scientific interest (SSSIs). These discussions highlight the need for controlled methods of grazing and burning, though farmers argue these methods may not be practical or effective long-term.
The National Park Authority runs a program called CareMoor for Exmoor. This program allows people who love the area to support conservation and access projects through donations.
Sport and recreation
Exmoor offers many activities for visitors, including sightseeing, walking, cycling, and mountain biking. These activities allow people to enjoy the area's beautiful coastline and countryside. The South West Coast Path begins in Minehead and follows the Exmoor coast before continuing to Poole. The Coleridge Way is an 82 km (51 mi) walking trail that follows the paths once taken by poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge to Lynmouth. The trail starts at Coleridge Cottage in Nether Stowey, where he lived. The Two Moors Way is a walking route that connects Ivybridge in South Devon to Lynmouth on the North Devon coast. It crosses parts of Dartmoor and Exmoor. Both the Coleridge Way and the Two Moors Way cross the South West Coast Path, which is the longest National Trail in Britain. Other walking trails in Exmoor include the Tarka Trail, Samaritans Way South West, Macmillan Way West, Exe Valley Way, and Celtic Way Exmoor Option.
The Exmoor National Park Authority also promotes several short walking routes. These include Exmoor Strolls, which are accessible paths with no steps or stiles; Exmoor Explorers, which are shorter walks to discover Exmoor's highlights; and Exmoor Classics, which are longer walks to explore more of the area.
Although hunting with hounds was banned by the Hunting Act 2004, the Exmoor hunts still gather in traditional clothing. Some people support bringing back this activity as part of rural traditions. Nine hunts operate in the area, including the Devon and Somerset Staghounds, Quantock Staghounds, Exmoor, Dulverton West, Dulverton Farmers, West Somerset Foxhounds, Minehead Harriers, West Somerset Beagles, and North Devon Beagles. During spring, hunts hold amateur steeplechase events, called point-to-points, at temporary courses like Bratton Down and Holnicote. These events, along with thoroughbred and pony racing, provide opportunities for farmers, hunt staff, and the public to experience traditional country entertainment.
Places of interest
Exmoor has many attractions, including 208 important historical sites, 16 areas protected for their natural beauty, and open land where visitors can walk freely, as decided by the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000. Each year, about 1.4 million people visit Exmoor, either for a single day or for longer stays.
The Exmoor National Park Authority manages three visitor centers in the towns of Dulverton, Dunster, and Lynmouth. These centers help visitors learn about and enjoy the National Park.
Along the coast, attractions include the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway, which connects the town of Lynton to the nearby town of Lynmouth, where two rivers meet. Nearby are the Valley of Rocks and Watersmeet. A few miles west of Lynton is Woody Bay, home to the Lynton & Barnstaple Railway, a narrow-gauge railway that once linked Lynton and Lynmouth to Barnstaple, a town about 31 kilometers (19 miles) away.
Further along the coast, Porlock is a quiet town with a salt marsh nature reserve and a harbor at Porlock Weir. Watchet is a historic town with a marina and hosts a carnival every July.
Inland, many attractions are in small towns and villages or near rivers. These include Tarr Steps, an ancient clapper bridge, and Snowdrop Valley near Wheddon Cross, where thousands of white snowdrop flowers bloom in early spring. Later in the year, bluebells grow in the same area. Withypool is located in the Barle Valley, and the Two Moors Way walking path passes through the village. Dunster has Dunster Castle, a priory, a dovecote, a yarn market, an inn, a packhorse bridge, a mill, and a stop on the West Somerset Railway. Exford is located on the River Exe.
Exmoor has appeared in several books, including Lorna Doone: A Romance of Exmoor by R. D. Blackmore, written in the 19th century, and The Witch of Exmoor by Margaret Drabble, published in 1998. The park was also shown on the television program Seven Natural Wonders twice, as one of the wonders of the West Country.
Wheal Eliza Mine, near Simonsbath on the River Barle, was a mine that did not successfully produce copper or iron.
Near Wheddon Cross is Snowdrop Valley, where thousands of white snowdrop flowers grow in early spring. A sawmill once operated in the valley and was powered by the River Avill, which flows through the area.