Kaziranga National Park is located in the Golaghat, Sonitpur, Biswanath, and Nagaon districts of Assam, India. The park is home to two-thirds of the world’s Indian rhinoceroses and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A census in March 2018, conducted by the Forest Department of Assam and wildlife NGOs, reported that the rhino population in the park is 2,613. This includes 1,641 adult rhinos and 385 calves.

Kaziranga National Park was designated a Tiger Reserve in 2006. The park supports large breeding groups of Indian elephants, wild water buffalo, and swamp deer. It is recognized as an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International for protecting bird species found in the region. Compared to other protected areas in India, Kaziranga has had significant success in conserving wildlife. Located near the Eastern Himalaya biodiversity hotspot, the park has high species diversity and visibility.

Kaziranga covers a large area of tall elephant grass, marshes, and dense tropical moist forests. Four major rivers, including the Brahmaputra River, cross the park, along with many small water bodies. The park has inspired books, songs, and documentaries. It celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2005, following its establishment as a reserve forest in 1905.

Etymology

The origin of the name Kaziranga is not clearly known, but several possible explanations come from local stories and historical records. One story tells of a girl named Rawnga from a nearby village and a boy named Kazi from Karbi Anglong who fell in love. Their families did not agree with their relationship, so the couple disappeared into the forest and were never seen again. The forest was later named after them.

Evidence of the name's long history is found in records from the 17th century. During this time, the Ahom king Pratap Singha visited the area and was impressed by the taste of fish. He was told the fish came from Kaziranga. The name may also mean "Land of red goats (Deer)" because "Kazi" in the Karbi language means "goat" and "Rangai" means "red."

History

The history of Kaziranga as a protected area began in 1904 when Mary Curzon, Baroness Curzon of Kedleston, the wife of Lord Curzon of Kedleston, the Viceroy of India, visited the area. She was disappointed that she could not see a single-horned rhinoceros, which was famous for living there. She asked her husband to take action to protect the rhinoceroses, which were becoming fewer in number. He responded by starting plans to safeguard the animals. On June 1, 1905, the Kaziranga Proposed Reserve Forest was established, covering an area of 232 km² (90 square miles).

In 1950, the Kaziranga Game Sanctuary was renamed the "Kaziranga Wildlife Sanctuary" by P. D. Stracey, a forest conservationist, to remove any suggestions of hunting from the name.

In recent decades, Kaziranga has faced challenges from both natural events and human actions, such as major floods. Floods caused by the Brahmaputra River overflowing have led to the loss of many animal lives. In 2024, six rhinos and hundreds of deer were recorded as having drowned in rising floodwaters. A separatist movement in Assam, led by the United Liberation Front of Assam (ULFA), has harmed the region’s economy. However, Kaziranga has not been directly affected by this movement. Reports from the 1980s indicate that some ULFA rebels have protected animals and, in extreme cases, killed poachers.

Geography

Kaziranga is located between latitudes 26°30' N and 26°45' N, and longitudes 93°08' E to 93°36' E. It is found within three districts in the Indian state of Assam: the Kaliabor subdivision of Nagaon district, the Bokajan subdivision of Karbi Anglong district, and the Bokakhat subdivision of Golaghat district.

The park is about 40 km (25 mi) long from east to west and 13 km (8.1 mi) wide from north to south. Kaziranga covers an area of 378 km (146 sq mi). In recent years, approximately 51.14 km (19.75 sq mi) of land has been lost due to erosion. An additional 429 km (166 sq mi) has been added to the park’s boundary and given separate national park status. This expansion helps provide more habitat for wildlife and allows animals to move safely to the Karbi Anglong Hills. The park is surrounded by the Brahmaputra River on the north and east, and the Mora Diphlu River on the south. Other rivers within the park include the Diphlu and Mora Dhansiri.

The landscape includes exposed sandbars, flood-formed lakes called beels, and elevated areas called chapories. These chapories offer shelter for animals during floods. The Indian Army has built artificial chapories to help protect wildlife. Kaziranga is one of the largest protected areas in the sub-Himalayan region. It is known as a "biodiversity hotspot" because it is home to many different and easily seen species.

During certain seasons, beels and nullahs (water channels) dry up. The rainy season, from June to September, brings most of the park’s annual rainfall of 2,220 mm (87 in). During July and August, about three-fourths of the western part of the park is flooded because of rising Brahmaputra River water levels. Each flood covers 70%-80% of the park for 5–10 days. This forces animals to move to higher ground outside the park, such as the Mikir Hills. In 2012, 540 animals, including 13 rhinos and mostly hog deer, died in severe floods. However, dry periods can also cause problems, such as food shortages and forest fires.

The park’s plants and animal habitats change with the seasons. In winter, shallow beels and nullahs dry up, and short grasses grow over their beds. These grasses also surround the perennial beels. After the monsoon season ends, herbivores like rhinoceroses move to these areas to graze.

In other parts of the park, tall grasses dry up by December and January. Park staff then burn these areas to control growth. After burning, some animals gather in these patches to eat the ash and partially burned reeds. Winter rain causes fresh grass to grow in these areas, attracting more animals. In summer, the grasses grow quickly and become coarse, no longer appealing to animals. Temperatures rise, and animals prefer to stay near water sources, such as the perennial beels and streams. During the monsoon, beels and nullahs fill with rainwater and later floodwaters. Animals gradually move to higher ground near forests. When most of the park is flooded, animals migrate to nearby areas like the Karbi Anglong Hills.

Flora

This park has four main types of plant life: alluvial inundated grasslands, alluvial savanna woodlands, tropical moist mixed deciduous forests, and tropical semi-evergreen forests. According to Landsat data from 1986, the percentage of land covered by vegetation includes: tall grasses (41%), short grasses (11%), open jungle (29%), swamps (4%), rivers and water bodies (8%), and sand (6%).

Thick evergreen forests near the Kanchanjhuri, Panbari, and Tamulipathar blocks include trees such as Aphanamixis polystachya, Talauma hodgsonii, Dillenia indica, Garcinia tinctoria, Ficus rumphii, Cinnamomum bejolghota, and species of Syzygium. Tropical semi-evergreen forests are found near Baguri, Bimali, and Haldibari. Common trees and shrubs in these areas include Albizia procera, Duabanga grandiflora, Lagerstroemia speciosa, Crateva unilocularis, Sterculia urens, Grewia serrulata, Mallotus philippensis, Bridelia retusa, Aphania rubra, Leea indica, and Leea umbraculifera.

Many types of aquatic plants grow in the lakes, ponds, and along riverbanks. The invasive water hyacinth is widespread and often blocks water flow, but it is removed during destructive floods. Another invasive plant, Mimosa invisa, which is harmful to herbivores, was removed by Kaziranga staff with assistance from the Wildlife Trust of India in 2005.

Fauna

Kaziranga is home to many animal species. It has large groups of 35 mammal species. The park has the largest number of Indian rhinoceros in the world (2,401), wild water buffalo (1,666), and eastern swamp deer (468). Other large herbivores include Indian elephants (1,940) and sambar (58). Smaller herbivores in the park are the Indian muntjac, Indian boar, and Indian hog deer. Kaziranga has more than half of the world’s wild water buffalo population. The Indian rhinoceros, royal Bengal tiger, Asian elephant, wild water buffalo, and swamp deer are called the "Big Five" of Kaziranga.

Kaziranga is one of the few places outside Africa where large cats like Bengal tigers and Indian leopards live and have babies. It became a Tiger Reserve in 2007. Other cat species in the park include jungle cats, fishing cats, and leopard cats. It is the only place in India and the world where a Golden tiger was seen in the wild.

Small mammals in the park include the rare hispid hare, Indian gray mongoose, small Indian mongoose, large Indian civet, small Indian civet, Bengal fox, golden jackal, sloth bear, Chinese pangolin, Indian pangolin, hog badger, Chinese ferret-badger, and particoloured flying squirrel. Nine of the 14 primate species in India live in Kaziranga. These include the Assamese macaque, capped and golden langur, and the hoolock gibbon, which is the only ape in India. The binturong and Asian small-clawed otter were recorded in the park in 2024.

Birdlife International has named Kaziranga an Important Bird Area. The park has many birds, including migratory birds, water birds, predators, scavengers, and game birds. Species like the lesser white-fronted goose, ferruginous duck, Baer’s pochard, lesser adjutant, greater adjutant, black-necked stork, and Asian openbill stork travel from Central Asia to Kaziranga in winter. Riverine birds include the Blyth’s kingfisher, white-bellied heron, Dalmatian pelican, spot-billed pelican, Nordmann’s greenshank, and black-bellied tern. Birds of prey in the park include the rare eastern imperial eagle, greater spotted eagle, white-tailed eagle, Pallas’s fish eagle, grey-headed fish eagle, and lesser kestrel.

Kaziranga once had seven vulture species, but their numbers dropped near extinction after they ate dead animals containing the drug Diclofenac. Only the Indian vulture, slender-billed vulture, and white-rumped vulture remain. Game birds in the park include the swamp francolin, Bengal florican, and pale-capped pigeon.

Other bird families in Kaziranga include the great pied hornbill and wreathed hornbill, Old World babblers like Jerdon’s and marsh babblers, weaver birds such as the common baya weaver, threatened Finn’s weavers, and bristled grassbird. Other threatened species are the black-breasted parrotbill.

Two of the world’s largest snakes, the reticulated python and Indian rock python, and the longest venomous snake, the king cobra, live in Kaziranga. Other snakes include the Indian cobra, monocled cobra, Russell’s viper, and common krait. Monitor lizards in the park are the Bengal monitor and Asian water monitor. Other reptiles include 15 turtle species, such as the Assam roofed turtle (found only in Assam), and one tortoise species, the brown tortoise. The area has 42 fish species, including the Tetraodon.

Governance

The Wildlife wing of the Assam Government's forest department, based in Bokakhat, manages Kaziranga National Park. The director, a top-level forest officer called a Chief Conservator of Forests, is the head of the park. A Divisional Forest Officer leads the park's daily operations and is supported by two Assistant Conservators of Forests. The park is divided into five ranges: Burapahar (headquarters: Ghorakati), Western (headquarters: Baguri), Central (headquarters: Kohora), Eastern (headquarters: Agaratoli), and Northern (headquarters: Biswanath). Each range is further split into beats, managed by foresters, and sub-beats, managed by forest guards.

Kaziranga receives money from the Assam State Government and the Indian Ministry of Environment, Forests & Climate Change through different types of budgets. Additional funds come from the Central Government’s Project Elephant program. Most of this money pays the salaries of park staff and supports efforts to stop poaching. Only a small amount is used for park development. Despite these funds, the park often lacks enough money. In 1997–1998, the park received $100,000 from the World Heritage Fund for a security support program.

Local people work in the park as laborers and in related jobs. Work includes anti-poaching activities, building bridges and culverts, and removing Mimosa, a harmful weed. About 100 to 200 people are hired per range for this task. Since 2007, the park has also hired security guards to protect tourist vehicles. The park has a strong network of informants in nearby villages who report poacher movements and are paid for their help.

Kaziranga has the highest level of protection under Indian wildlife laws. Laws from 1891, like the Assam Forest Regulation, and newer laws like the Biodiversity Conservation Act of 2002, help protect the park. Poaching, especially of rhinoceroses for their horns, has been a major problem. Between 1980 and 2005, 567 rhinoceroses were killed. In 2007, 18 were lost. Reports suggest some poachers are linked to terrorist groups.

To reduce harm, the park builds and maintains anti-poaching camps, patrols regularly, gathers intelligence, and limits firearm use near the park. Since 2013, drones with cameras are used to monitor rhinos and protect them from poachers.

Frequent flooding and heavy rains have killed animals and damaged park infrastructure. Corridors have been created to help animals cross National Highway–37 safely.

Pollution from pesticide runoff in nearby tea gardens and a petroleum refinery in Numaligarh harms the park’s environment. Controlled burning is done yearly to prevent forest fires.

Ecotourism

Watching wildlife, such as birds, is the most common activity for visitors in and around the park. Guided tours by elephant or Jeep are available. Hiking is not allowed in the park to prevent possible conflicts between people and animals. Observation towers are located at Sohola, Mihimukh, Kathpara, Foliamari, and Harmoti for viewing wildlife. Snow-covered peaks of the Lower Himalayas surround the park's landscape, which includes trees, grass, and many ponds. An interpretation center at the Bagori range of Kaziranga helps visitors learn more about the park. Increased tourism has helped people living near the park earn money through tourism-related jobs, showing the importance of protecting the area. A survey of tourists found that 80% enjoyed seeing rhinos the most, and foreign visitors were more likely to support park protection and jobs, while local visitors preferred support for veterinary care. The recently opened Kaziranga National Orchid and Biodiversity Park in Durgapur village is a new attraction. It has over 500 orchid species, 132 sour fruit and leafy vegetable types, 12 cane species, 46 bamboo species, and many local fish varieties.

Tourism helps people living near the park by providing jobs and income. As of 2007, about 35 hotels or lodges near the park offered accommodations, four of which were government-run. These businesses employ around 300 people. Some families near the park also offer home stays, allowing tourists to experience local life and have guides take them into the park. There are 26 shops selling souvenirs and handmade cloth, managed by local community members. The Ministry of Tourism, Government of India, and the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) work together to support rural tourism in Durgapur village, which is near the Kohora range of Kaziranga. Similar efforts are also happening at 31 other sites across India.

Controversy

In 2017, Kaziranga faced strong criticism after a BBC News documentary exposed a strict approach to conservation, including reports of 20 people killed each year in the name of protecting rhinos. Because of this report, BBC News was banned from filming in India's protected areas for five years. Although some news reports said BBC had apologized for the documentary, the BBC did not admit fault. Its director general, Tony Hall, wrote to Survival International that the letter did not mean an apology for their reporting. In response, researchers in India offered a more detailed explanation, pointing out BBC's imprecise reporting while also highlighting challenges in Kaziranga's conservation efforts. They questioned whether the shoot-at-sight policy had been effective for protecting rhinos.

Economic valuation

Kaziranga Tiger Reserve estimated its annual benefits to be 9.8 billion rupees (95,000 rupees per hectare). Key ecosystem services included providing homes and safe places for wildlife (5.73 billion rupees), protecting genetic diversity (3.49 billion rupees), recreation value (21 million rupees), biological control (150 million rupees), and storing carbon (17 million rupees).

In popular culture

Kaziranga has been featured in many books, songs, and documentaries. The park became well-known internationally after Robin Banerjee, a doctor who later became a photographer and filmmaker, created a documentary called Kaziranga. This film was shown on television in Berlin in 1961 and became very popular.

A children's book titled Kaziranga Trail, written by Arup Dutta, tells a story about rhinoceros poaching in the national park. This book won the Shankar's Award. The Assamese singer Bhupen Hazarika mentions Kaziranga in one of his songs.

Mark Shand, a BBC conservationist and travel writer, wrote a book and a BBC documentary titled Queen of the Elephants. The book and film are about Parbati Barua, the first female mahout in recent history from Kaziranga. The book won the 1996 Thomas Cook Travel Book Award and the Prix Litteraire d'Amis. These awards helped raise awareness about the work of mahouts and about Kaziranga itself.

Further information

• Barthakur, Ranjit; Sahgal, Bittu (2005). A Book About Kaziranga's History. Published in Mumbai by Sanctuary Asia.
• Sandesh, Kadur; Thengummoottil, George (2014). Kaziranga National Park. Published in Assam by UNESCO.
• Choudhury, Anwaruddin (2000). A Book About the Birds in Assam. Published in Guwahati by Gibbon Books and World Wide Fund for Nature.
• Choudhury, Anwaruddin (2003). A Checklist of Birds in Kaziranga National Park. Published in Guwahati by Gibbon Books and The Rhino Foundation for Nature in Northeast India.
• Choudhury, Anwaruddin (2004). Kaziranga Wildlife in Assam. Published in India by Rupa & Co.
• Choudhury, Anwaruddin (2010). The Disappearing Herds: The Wild Water Buffalo. Published in Guwahati, India by Gibbon Books, Rhino Foundation, CEPF, and COA, Taiwan.
• Dutta, Arup Kumar (1991). Unicornis: The Great Indian One-Horned Rhinoceros. Published in New Delhi by Konark Publication.
• Gee, E.P. (1964). The Wild Life of India. Published in London by Collins.
• A 2005 documentary called "Jaws of Death," created by Gautam Saikia, about animals in Kaziranga being harmed by vehicles on National Highway 37. The documentary won the Vatavaran Award.
• Oberai, C.P.; B.S. Bonal (2002). Kaziranga: The Rhino Land. Published in New Delhi by B.R. Publishing.
• Shrivastava, Rahul; Heinen, Joel (2007). "A Study of How Animals Use Resources Near Kaziranga National Park, India: Ideas for Conservation and Development Planning." Published in The Journal of Environment & Development.
• Shrivastava, Rahul; Heinen, Joel (2005). "Migration and Home Gardens in the Brahmaputra Valley, Assam, India." Published in Journal of Ecological Anthropology.