Sarek National Park (Swedish: Sareks nationalpark) is a national park located in Jokkmokk Municipality, Lapland, in northern Sweden. It was created in 1909 and is one of the oldest national parks in Europe. The park is next to two other national parks, Stora Sjöfallet and Padjelanta. The shape of Sarek National Park is almost round, with an average diameter of about 50 kilometers (31.07 miles).

The most famous features of the park are six of Sweden's thirteen mountains that are more than 2,000 meters (6,600 feet) tall. These include Sarektjåkkå, which is the second tallest mountain in Sweden, and Áhkká, which is just outside the park. The park has about 200 mountains that are more than 1,800 meters (5,900 feet) tall, 82 of which have names. Sarek is also the name of a region that includes the national park. The Sarek mountain area includes eight mountains over 2,000 meters (6,600 feet) tall. Because the paths are long and difficult, most of these mountains are rarely climbed. There are about 100 glaciers in Sarek National Park.

Sarek is a popular place for hikers and climbers. People who are new to these activities are encouraged to go with a guide because there are no marked trails, no places to stay, and only two bridges near the park's borders. The area receives some of the heaviest rainfall in Sweden, so hiking depends on the weather. The park also has fast-moving streams that are dangerous to cross without proper training.

The delta of the Rapa River is considered one of Europe's most famous sights. From the top of Mount Skierfe, visitors can see the ice-covered, glacial valley below.

The Pårte Scientific Station in Sarek (also called the Pårte Observatory) was built in the early 1900s by Swedish scientist Axel Hamberg. All the materials used to build the station were carried to the site by porters.

Names of locations

In Sarek National Park, as in much of Sápmi, many places have names that come from the Sami languages. These languages have many differences, and their written forms have changed over time. This is why some place names may not always match in different sources.

Common Sami names for places or features in the park include tjåkkå or tjåkko (mountain), vagge (valley), jåkkå or jåkko (stream), lako (plateau), and ätno (river). For example, Rapaätno means "Rapa River." These names are also the official Swedish names for these locations.

Geography

Sarek National Park is located in the Jokkmokk Municipality, Norrbotten County, Sweden, north of the Arctic Circle, 50 km (31.07 mi) from the Norwegian border.

The park covers an area of 1,977 km (763 mi) and is next to the national parks Padjelanta (to the west) and Stora Sjöfallet (to the north). Together, these three parks cover about 5,500 km (2,100 mi). There are also several nature reserves nearby.

Sarek National Park is the most mountainous area in Sweden and closely resembles an alpine countryside. The park has 19 peaks higher than 1,900 m (6,200 ft), with the highest being Sarektjåkkå, which is the second-tallest mountain in Sweden after Kebnekaise, standing at 2,089 m (6,854 ft). The lowest point in the park is near Lake Rittakjaure in the southwest, at 477 m (1,565 ft).

The park has three main types of landscapes, which can sometimes look similar: large valleys, high mountains, and plateaus. The most famous valley is the Rapa Valley, which covers 40 km (15 sq mi) of the park. It includes branches such as Sarvesvagge, Kuopervagge, and Ruotesvagge. Other notable valleys include Kukkesvagge, near the park’s northeastern border, and Njåtsosvagge, near the southern border. The largest plateau is Ivarlako, located east of the Pårte massif, starting at 660–850 m (2,170–2,790 ft). West of Pårte, the Luottolako plateau covers 45 km (17 sq mi) and reaches 1,200–1,400 m (3,900–4,600 ft).

Between the valleys and plateaus, there are large mountains with multiple peaks. The main mountains include:
• Sarektjåkkå, with its highest peak, Stortoppen, at 2,089 m (6,854 ft)
• Pårte, with its highest peak, Pårtetjåkkå, at 2,005 m (6,578 ft)
• Piellorieppe, with its highest peak, Kåtokkaskatjåkkå, at 1,978 m (6,490 ft)
• Ålkatj, with its highest peak, Akkatjåkko, at 1,974 m (6,476 ft)
• Äpar, at 1,914 m (6,280 ft)
• Skårki, at 1,842 m (6,043 ft)
• Ruotes, at 1,804 m (5,919 ft)

The main river in the park is the Rapa River (Rapaätno). It begins at the glaciers of Sarektjåkkå and flows through the Rapa Valley to Lake Laitaure. After leaving the park, it joins the Lesser Lule River, which becomes part of the Lule River. The Rapa River is fed by 30 glaciers, giving it a strong flow. The river’s flow changes with the seasons, averaging 100 cubic meters per second in July and about 4 cubic meters per second in winter, with an average annual flow of 30 cubic meters per second. The river carries a large amount of sediment, up to 5,000–10,000 metric tons (11,000,000–22,000,000 lb) daily in summer and only a few tons daily in winter, totaling 180,000 metric tons (400,000,000 lb) annually. This sediment gives the river a grey-green color and forms large deltas. The main delta is created where the Rapaätno meets its main tributary, the Sarvesjokk River.

Before joining the Sarvesjokk, the river braids for nearly 10 km (6.2 mi), forming a section called Rapaselet. The most famous delta, and a symbol of the park, is the Laitaure delta (Laitauredeltat), formed where the river connects to Lake Laitaure. Other rivers in the park flow into Lake Akkajaure in the Stora Sjöfallet National Park, contributing to the Lule älv’s hydrographic network.

The park also includes several lakes. The largest are Alkajaure, located on the border between Sarek and Padjelanta parks at 751 m (2,464 ft), and Pierikjaure, near the Stora Sjöfallet National Park at 820 m (2,690 ft).

• The landscapes of the Rapa River
• Rapaselet
• Skyview of Rapaselet
• The river delta of Laitaure

Geology

The Sarek National Park is located in the Scandinavian Mountains, a mountain range whose formation is still being studied by scientists. The rocks in this range were shaped by a mountain-building event called the Caledonian orogeny, which created a band of folded and shifted rocks known as the Scandinavian Caledonides. These Caledonian rocks lie above older rock regions called the Svecokarelian and Sveconorwegian provinces. The Caledonian rocks form large layers of rock, called nappes, that were pushed over the older rocks. Over time, much of these Caledonian rocks have been worn away by erosion, meaning they were once thicker and more connected. Evidence from erosion suggests that these rock layers once extended farther east than they do today. Erosion has left behind large rock masses of Caledonian rocks and exposed areas of very old Precambrian rocks. The Caledonian orogeny happened because two large landmasses, Laurentia and Baltica, collided about 450 to 250 million years ago. This collision caused the Iapetus Ocean to disappear through a process called subduction. This event occurred just before the mountain range formed and was linked to the opening of a rift, which eventually led to the creation of the Atlantic Ocean. After the mountain range formed, it continued to erode until it became a flat plain called a peneplain.

Around 60 million years ago, both the Scandinavian Mountains and parts of North America experienced a rise in elevation due to tectonic forces. Scientists are still unsure why this happened, but some theories suggest it may have been caused by the Iceland hotspot, which could have lifted the Earth’s crust. Another theory is that the balance of the Earth’s crust, related to ice ages, caused the uplift. In either case, this uplift raised the ancient mountain range by several thousand meters.

The area of the national park, especially the eastern Sarek Mountains, was the last part of Fennoscandia to be free of ice. The last ice from the Fennoscandian Ice Sheet melted there slightly after 9,700 years ago.

After this, the mountain range was reshaped by new glaciers. At the start of the Quaternary period, about 15 million years ago, a major ice advance occurred. Glaciers began to grow and move into valleys, merging to form a large ice sheet that covered the entire region. Many more ice ages followed, shaping the current landscape with features like glacial valleys, cirques, and nunataks. The degree of erosion the mountain range experienced depended mainly on the structure of the land, which explains the variety of landforms in the area. The landscape of Sarek, similar to that of Kebnekaise, is divided into clearly defined zones, especially compared to nearby national parks. This is largely due to the presence of hard, erosion-resistant rock layers called diabase and diorite dikes. These dikes, formed 608 million years ago, likely appeared during the early stages of the rift that led to the formation of the Iapetus Ocean. These dikes are found within the Sarektjåkkå nappe, a layer of sedimentary rocks likely deposited in the rift basin.

The park is home to over 100 glaciers, making it one of the most glacier-covered areas in Sweden. The glaciers are relatively small, with the largest being Pårtejekna in Pårte, measuring 11 kilometers long. However, some glaciers are among the largest in Sweden, such as Stuorrajekna in Sulitelma, which is 13 kilometers long.

The changes in the glaciers, especially the Mikka glacier (8 kilometers long), have been studied since the late 1800s, particularly by mineralogist and geographer Axel Hamberg. Other glaciers in the park have followed a similar pattern: they mostly receded from 1883 to 1895, then advanced slightly from 1900 to 1916, before receding again. Later, they stabilized or grew, which was linked to increased winter snowfall due to global warming. Scientists also considered the effects of rising summer temperatures when analyzing these changes. In recent years, the glaciers have been retreating rapidly, especially during the early 2000s.

Wildlife

Sarek National Park is located in the Scandinavian Montane Birch forest and grasslands ecoregion, with a small part in the Scandinavian and Russian taiga. The park has fewer types of plants and animals compared to other areas. This is because most of the park, except the southern and southeast regions, is above the altitude where conifer trees can grow, which is about 500 meters (1,600 feet) in this area. Also, unlike many similar regions, Sarek has few large lakes or swamps. Scientists have identified about 380 types of vascular plants in the park, along with 182 vertebrate species, including 24 mammals, 142 birds, 2 reptiles, 2 amphibians, and 12 fish. Many of these species are listed as endangered in Sweden, especially large carnivores.

The plants in the park change with altitude due to the climate, and this pattern also influences the animals living there, though the changes in animal life are less clear.

The highest areas of the park are relatively low compared to other northern regions, with the upper limit of conifer forests around 500 meters (1,600 feet). These forests are mostly made of old-growth Scots pines and Norway spruces. The ground under these trees is covered with mosses, lichens, and plants like reindeer lichen, Vaccinium myrtillus, Empetrum nigrum, and cowberry.

The forests in Sarek are home to many animals. Brown bears are common in the park and nearby areas, often moving into higher regions. The Eurasian lynx, which is endangered in Sweden, lives near lakes like Rittak and Laitaure and in the subalpine forests of Rapa Valley. Red foxes are also common and are slowly moving into higher areas, where they compete with arctic foxes. Other mammals include European pine martens, least weasels, stoats, and ermines. Moose are very common in the park, as the forests and wet areas provide plenty of food. They often grow very large with big antlers.

Birds in Sarek include owls like the Ural owl and woodpeckers such as the Eurasian three-toed woodpecker. Grey-headed chickadees, fieldfares, song thrushes, and redwings are also common. Reptiles and amphibians like the viviparous lizard, common frog, and common European viper live in the forests. Vipers in the Rittak area can grow quite large.

The subalpine zone is mostly covered by old-growth birch forests. These forests are very dense and rich, allowing sediment from the mountains to be carried by water into streams. This is especially noticeable in the Rapa Valley. The transition between conifer and birch forests is gradual, with birch trees becoming more common as altitude increases until conifers disappear. Trees in the subalpine zone are smaller than those in lower areas. The tree line, or the highest altitude where trees grow, varies across the park, from about 600 meters (2,000 feet) in the Tjoulta valley to over 800 meters (2,600 feet) in the Rapa Valley.

Other tree types in the birch forests include rowan, grey alder, trembling poplar, and hackberry. Alpine blue-sow-thistle is widespread and is a favorite food for bears. Garden angelica grows in the forests, reaching heights of 2 to 3 meters (6.6 to 9.8 feet). Many plants in this area grow very large.

The boundary between birch and conifer forests is not clear, and many animals live in both areas. Some small mammals, like common shrews and field voles, are more common in the subalpine zone. This is also where reindeer live. The Sami people who live in the park raise reindeer that stay in this zone during spring and move to higher areas in summer. Brown bears are common in the Tjoulta and Rapadalen valleys. The subalpine zone is also rich in birds, including willow warblers, common redpolls, bramblings, yellow wagtails, northern wheatears, and bluethroats. The willow ptarmigan is also common here. Birds of prey like merlins and rough-legged buzzards nest on cliffs, while gyrfalcons and golden eagles are found at lower altitudes.

The alpine zone is divided into smaller areas. The first part is covered with heathland, including alder shrubs, mosses, lichens, and dense mats of crowberries. Different types of heath exist, such as areas with alpine clubmoss and alpine bearberry. Cushion pink and Lapland lousewort add color to the heath in autumn. In areas with chalky soil, mountain avens are the main plant, along with purple saxifrage, velvetbells, alpine pussytoes, and alpine veronica. At higher altitudes, dwarf willows and lichens become more common. Above 1,500 meters (4,900 feet), only 18 plant species grow.

Three rare mammals live in the alpine zone. The wolverine lives in a large area, moving into conifer forests in winter but spending most of its time in the alpine zone. It eats dead animals but also hunts small mammals, birds, and insects. The wolverine is endangered in Sweden, with about 360 individuals in the country in 2000. The Arctic fox is critically endangered in Sweden, with only about 50 individuals. They dig tunnels above the tree line and share homes with other families. The park is one of the last places where the gray wolf, also critically endangered in Sweden, lives. In the 1970s, the park was home to the only wild wolf in Sweden. Although the wolf population is growing, it is not yet stable in the park.

Norway lemmings are also found in the park. Their numbers change greatly, with large population increases in some years followed by sudden declines. Scientists believe better weather and more food cause population booms, but the reasons for declines are unclear. Diseases may play a role. These changes also affect animals that hunt lemmings.

Birds living at high altitudes are often found near wet areas, but the alpine zone has its own unique species, such as the rock ptarmigan, snowy owl, horned lark, meadow pipit, snow bunting, and Lapland longspur.

Tourism

Sarek National Park is mostly a high mountain area with very few places for tourists to stay overnight.

The Kungsleden hiking trail goes through the eastern part of the park, starting at Saltoluokta and ending at Kvikkjokk. There are no cabins inside the park. The Pårte, Aktse, and Sitojaure cabins are located just outside the park and can be reached from both Saltoluokta and Kvikkjokk.

The Padjelanta Trail (Padjelantaleden) runs from Kvikkjokk to Akkajaure and follows the edge of the park on its western side near Tarraluoppal. The Tarraluoppal cabin is located just outside the park at this point.

Because there are few shelters, weather changes quickly, and the terrain is rough, hikers should be well-prepared and experienced before hiking in the park.

There are few bridges in the park, and crossing streams (Sami: jokk) and rivers (Sami: ätno) can be dangerous for hikers who are not equipped or experienced. Warm weather increases glacier melting, which raises water levels. Wading is often easier and safer early in the morning.

The only ford across the Rapa River south of the Smaila Moot is at Tielmaskaite. This ford is long and can only be used when water levels are low. Hikers who are not experienced are advised not to cross without a guide.

The glacier stream from Pårtejekna, Kåtokjåhkå, has no fords. A bridge is located at the southern end of the stream (67°09′25.9″N 17°51′20.9″E). Hikers can also follow the stream to the glacier and cross there, but this requires knowledge about glacier crossing.

Few trails are marked, and there are few places to stay, making winter hiking difficult unless hikers are experienced and well-equipped. The steep slopes of the valleys also increase the risk of avalanches.

Aktse is an old farm settlement on the Kungsleden trail, located about 1.3 km (0.81 mi) outside the park’s boundaries.

In 1788, a chapel was built at Alkavare (67°20′32.7″N 17°12′55.3″E) for the Sami people who herded reindeer in the area during summer. The walls were made of local stone, and the roof came from Kvikkjokk, 60 km (37 mi) away. Services were held every summer on June 25. It took the minister from Kvikkjokk three days to reach the chapel and three days to return. The chapel was abandoned in the mid-1800s and renovated in 1961. It is still in use and belongs to the Jokkmokk parish of the Church of Sweden. Church services are held throughout July.

Above the canyon formed by Smailajåkk as it flows toward Rapaätno, there is a cabin for the National Park Service (67°22′38″N 17°38′42″E). A bridge over the Smailajåkk canyon allows hikers to cross the stream safely. The bridge is removed every winter and reinstalled in the spring after the flood. The cabin is not open to hikers but has an emergency shelter, an emergency telephone, and an outhouse. The area is called "Smaila Moot" because three major valleys (Routesvagge, Rapa Valley, and Koupervagge) meet there. It is a popular meeting place for hikers and a common starting point for climbing Sarektjåkkå (2,089 m or 6,854 ft) via the Mikkajekna glacier.

Pastavagge (called Basstavágge in Lule Sami) is a narrow valley forming a pass that connects Pielavalta (Bielavallda) to the east and ends north of Rinim on the shores of Lake Sitojaure (Sijddojávrre). The hiking distance from Pielavalta to Rinim is about 18 km (11 mi). Because there is a boat connection between Rinim and the Sitojaure cabins on the Kungsleden trail, Pastavagge is a preferred route to and from central Sarek. The elevation difference between the eastern entrance of the valley and the highest point of the pass is about 750 m (2,460 ft). Due to the steep climb, multiple fords, and high-alpine terrain, it usually takes at least a full day to cross the pass.

History

The first people to live in the region arrived when the inland seas moved back 8,000 years ago. These early people were nomads from Northern Scandinavia and may have been ancestors of the Sami. They lived by hunting and gathering, mainly relying on reindeer for food. For these people, mountains often had religious importance, and they built places called Sieidi for worship. Items like reindeer antlers were often left as offerings at these sites. One important Sieidi was located at the base of Mount Skierfe (1,179 meters high) near the entrance to the Rapa Valley. Sami from across the region gathered there for ceremonies. Mount Apär was believed to be home to demons, and stories told of a ghost of an illegitimate child inside it.

Although the Sami lived as hunter-gatherers, they also kept some domesticated reindeer. These reindeer were used for milk, transportation, and other purposes. By the end of the 17th century, the number of domesticated reindeer grew, and the Sami began to move with the herds to find good grazing areas. Over time, hunting reindeer became less common, and the Sami focused more on raising them. The Sami in the mountains developed a system of moving between summer and winter pastures. They spent winters on the park’s plains and traveled to the mountains in summer, mainly to Padjelanta. Sarek was often used as a path for travel, but some areas, like Skarja and Peilavalta, were used for grazing. To stay safe during long journeys, the Sami built small shelters called kåta at chosen spots in the park. Eventually, they allowed reindeer to graze freely and stopped moving with the herds in the old way.

When the Swedish government took control of Sami lands, the Sami had to pay taxes like other Swedes. In the 17th century, Swedish missionaries tried to convert the Sami to Christianity, building churches and markets in places where the Sami wintered. The Swedes found the mountains scary and avoided exploring them. When silver was discovered in the mountains, the Swedes asked the Sami to search for other ores, but the Sami were afraid to share such information. They worried that revealing it might force them into forced labor in mines. One exception was the Alkavare deposit, which a poor Sami revealed to the Swedes. This led to the mine opening in 1672, but it failed and was abandoned in 1702. Today, ruins of two buildings and a small chapel remain near the site.

The first scientist to explore the mountains was Carl von Linné during his 1732 expedition to Lapland. Later, in 1870, Gustaf Wilhelm Bucht mapped the region. In 1881, a Frenchman named Charles Rabot reached the top of Sarektjåkkå. The 1890s brought more scientific studies. Axel Hamberg, who had worked on an expedition to Greenland, began studying the region in 1895. He focused on glaciers and created a detailed map of the area. He also built five cabins in the park, called the Pårte station, where he conducted research. Hamberg’s work helped raise awareness of the park’s beauty.

The creation of Yellowstone National Park in 1872 inspired efforts to protect natural areas worldwide. In Sweden, Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld, a polar explorer, suggested using the national park idea to protect parts of Sweden’s landscape. Hamberg, Nordenskiöld, and others worked to convince Karl Starbäck, a Swedish botanist, to support the idea in the Riksdag. Their proposal was accepted in 1909, leading to the establishment of nine national parks in Sweden, including Sarek and Stora Sjöfallet. The goal was to "preserve a high mountain landscape in its natural state."

In the mid-20th century, Sweden built dams on northern rivers for hydroelectric power, including in national parks. Stora Sjöfallet lost nearly a third of its land due to a dam built in 1919. In 1961, an agreement called "Sarek peace" prevented hydroelectric projects in Sarek and certain rivers, leading to the creation of Padjelanta National Park.

In 1982, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) added Sarek to its list of potential World Heritage Sites. Sweden proposed including the Sjaunja nature reserve, and in 1990, the IUCN recommended expanding the area. In 1996, Sarek was officially recognized as a World Heritage Site, along with Padjelanta, Stora Sjöfallet, Sjaunja, Stubba, Muddus, and other areas. The site was named the Laponian Area, a mix of cultural and natural value. The park also joined the Natura 2000 network. A protection plan was created in 2007 with input from the Sami, who had not been involved in the park’s original creation. The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) funded this process.

A 2007 plan proposed expanding Sarek to include the Laitaure Delta and Tjuoltadalen Valley, which had been suggested earlier. This expansion was influenced by the park’s World Heritage status, as it would cover a large part of the Laponian Region.

Many Swedes consider Sarek National Park one of the most beautiful landscapes in their country. Axel Hamberg’s book about the park helped spread its fame, portraying it as a highlight of Swedish Lapland.

The Swedish Tourist Association (STF) was founded in 1885. In 1886, they first mentioned Sarek as a potential tourist site, though only a few visitors came. In 1900, the STF studied creating a long hiking trail through Lapland’s mountains, between Abisko and Kvikkjokk. The plan included a marked trail through the park, a boat crossing of the Rapaselet, and a mountain hut. The project was later abandoned, and the STF focused on other areas like Kebnekaise and Sylan. The trail, called Kungsleden, was built but only reached the park’s southeast corner.

In 1946, Dag Hammarskjöld popularized the phrase "vår sista stora vildmark" ("our last great wilderness"). He supported responsible tourism that protected the environment. Edvin Nilsson’s 1970 book on the park increased its popularity, raising the number of visitors from a few hundred in the 1960s to 2,000 by the 1970s.

Management and regulation

The management of most Swedish national parks is shared between the Environmental Protection Agency of Sweden and the County administrative board. The Environmental Protection Agency suggests new national parks after talking with county and local government officials. To create a new park, the Swedish Parliament, called the Riksdag, must approve it. Once approved, the government buys the land through the Environmental Protection Agency. After that, the County administrative board is responsible for managing the rest of the park. In Sarek National Park, this responsibility belongs to the Norrbotten County administrative board.

The rules in the park are strict to keep the area as natural and untouched as possible. Activities like fishing, hunting, and picking flowers are not allowed, except for picking berries and edible mushrooms. Motorized vehicles, such as cars or motorcycles, are also not allowed in the park.

There are special rules for the Sami people, an indigenous group in Sweden. In 1977, Sweden recognized the Sami as an official minority group, which means their culture and way of life are protected by law. This allows the Sami to raise reindeer in the park. The park is located on land owned by Sami communities called Sirkas, Jåhkågaskka, and Tuorpons. Members of these communities may also use motorized vehicles like snowmobiles or helicopters to care for their reindeer.

These rights sometimes cause problems for wildlife. For example, in 2007, a wolf that was not registered and is protected in Sweden entered an area where reindeer were grazing. The wolf was tracked, tested, and monitored. When it killed several reindeer and caused harm to the herd, officials from the Norrbotten County administrative board, the Environmental Protection Agency, and the Sami decided together to shoot the wolf, following a law about managing animals that cause problems.

There is also a discussion about the effects of snowmobiles and all-terrain vehicles in the park. These vehicles have become more common, and warmer weather has made the land more fragile. Visitors sometimes ride snowmobiles off marked trails, which the Sami say can cause pregnant reindeer to give birth too early.