Sumapaz Páramo (Spanish: Páramo de Sumapaz, meaning "Utterly peaceful moorland") is a large páramo area located in the Altiplano Cundiboyacense mountain range. It is considered the largest páramo ecosystem in the world. In 1977, it was named a National Park of Colombia because it is an important area for many different plants and animals and serves as the main source of water for the most crowded region of the country, the Bogotá savanna.

History

Sumapaz Páramo was a sacred place for the Muisca indigenous people. It was believed to be connected to spiritual powers of creation and the beginning of human life. People were not allowed to enter this area.

In the 16th century, a German explorer named Nikolaus Federmann led a journey through Sumapaz Páramo. He was searching for the mythical treasure of El Dorado. Many people, including Spanish and indigenous individuals, and horses, died during the trip because of the extreme cold. The Spanish called the area "País de la Niebla," which means "Country of Fog" in Spanish. This name came from the thick clouds near the ground that made it hard to see.

In 1783, José Celestino Mutis led a scientific expedition to study the plants and animals in the region. However, the expedition did not visit the páramo because of the difficult weather conditions. In 1799, the German naturalist Alexander von Humboldt described the páramo and its plants for the first time. He also noted the presence of glacier valleys and compared the rock and land shapes of the area to those found in the Alps.

During the early 20th century, the Spanish naturalist José Cuatrecasas studied the páramo and the tree line. Other scientists who researched the area included Ernesto Guhl, who studied plant communities for 30 years, and Thomas van der Hammen.

Climate and geography

Sumapaz Páramo has a cold, harsh climate with average temperatures below 10 °C (50 °F), ranging from −10 °C to 17 °C. The weather changes suddenly between short warm periods and freezing cold. The average elevation ranges from 3,500 to 4,000 meters above sea level. The highest point is Nevado del Sumapaz peak, which reaches 4,306 meters above sea level. Annual rainfall is between 700 and 1,000 millimeters. Rain occurs almost all year, except from December to February, when sunlight is strongest and ultraviolet radiation is intense. Local plants have white, glassy coloring to help them survive. Humidity is usually high, between 50% and 90%, and the ground stays wet, covered by shallow water and sticky mud. Dense, flat vegetation often hides these areas, making them dangerous for visitors who might fall into the water and risk injury. These areas are called "Chupaderos" or "Chucuas," meaning "Drainages."

Sumapaz lies between the Orinoco River basin and the Magdalena River basin, the two major river systems in Colombia. It provides smaller rivers, or tributaries, to both. Most of the Sumapaz River’s tributaries begin in the páramo. Its location on the Thermal equator causes high rainfall. The area’s unique plants, which absorb and store water like sponges, help maintain the high levels of surface water. This makes Sumapaz an important source of water for surrounding regions.

Geology

The eastern part of Sumapaz is made up of Devonian metamorphic rock formations, which have steep slopes and mountainous areas. The western part contains Oligocene sedimentary rocks, with more gentle hills and valleys. The different periods of the Quaternary glaciation left behind rocks and dirt from glaciers, as well as lakes formed by glaciers, such as Chisaca Lake. During the Last Glacial Maximum, ice sheets moved through the Tunjuelo Valley as far as Usme, which is now part of Bogotá.

Soil

The soil in this area is acidic and contains large amounts of sodium and potassium. It is a rough-textured soil that allows water to pass through easily, which helps form groundwater in underground water storage areas. The soil's makeup and cold temperatures result in little humus and slow breakdown of organic materials, making the soil not well-suited for farming.

Flora

More than 200 types of vascular plants grow naturally in the area, and many of these species are found only in this region. The most well-known plants in the area are the Espeletia species. Some of the species found here include Espeletia grandiflora Humb. & Bonpl., which is the most common. The tallest Espeletia species is Espeletia uribei Cuatrec., which can grow up to 12 meters tall. Other species include Espeletia algodonosa Aristeg., Espeletia banksiifolia Sch.Bip. & Ettingsh. ex Wedd., Espeletia cuatrecasasii Ruíz-Terán & López-Fig., Espeletia formosa S.Díaz & Rodr.-Cabeza, Espeletia glossophylla Mattf., Espeletia killipii Cuatrec., Espeletia picnophyla Cuatrec., Espeletia schultzii (Benth.) W.M.Curtis, and Espeletia curialensis Cuatrec. Sphagnum moss covers large areas of Sumapaz. This moss helps the soil hold more water and nutrients by improving how water moves through the soil and how nutrients are stored. In canyon areas, the encenillo tree and tibouchina are the most common plants. The European plant Digitalis purpurea is a species that was brought to the area by humans, but it is not known whether this happened intentionally or by accident.

Fauna

The endangered spectacled bear lives in the Sumapaz region. Its main food is the Puya boyacana fruit and the stems of the Espeletia plant, which are also called caulirosule. Other animals found in the area include the Little Red Brocket Deer, tapir, coati, golden eagle, torrent duck, and Páramo duck (Anas georgica). A species that was brought to the water bodies is the rainbow trout.

Socio-economic issues

The soil and climate in the Sumapaz Páramo are not good for farming or other economic activities. However, people still live there in villages such as San Juan de Sumapaz, Nazareth, Santa Rosa, and El Hato. Only the first two villages have roads. About 1,200 families live in these areas, most of whom earn less than $1.25 per day and lack access to schools or proper sanitation. Because of this, some farmers grow potatoes inside the protected area, even though it is against the rules.

Human activity, such as cutting down trees and raising large numbers of cattle, has changed the natural forest. This makes it hard to tell the difference between natural grasslands and those created by people. About 10,000 cattle live or graze in the protected area. In 1950, President Mariano Ospina Pérez told Colombian banks not to give loans for farming or raising cattle above 3,500 meters (11,500 feet) to reduce these activities.

In recent years, illegal groups like FARC and ELN guerrillas used the area to move kidnapped people, weapons, and drugs. To address this, the Colombian government built a military base called the General Antonio Arredondo Military base in 2002. This helped remove the illegal groups from the region. However, the presence of the military has caused controversy because some say soldiers damage plants called frailejones by collecting their leaves to make simple sleeping mats.