Dartmoor is a highland area in southern Devon, South West England. The moorland and surrounding land were designated as a National Park in 1951. Dartmoor National Park covers 954 square kilometers (368 square miles).

The granite that forms the highlands is from the Carboniferous Period in Earth's history. The landscape includes moorland covered with exposed granite hilltops called tors, which provide homes for wildlife. The highest point is High Willhays, which is 621 meters (2,037 feet) above sea level. The area is filled with ancient structures and archaeological finds.

Dartmoor National Park is managed by the Dartmoor National Park Authority, which has 22 members from Devon County Council, local district councils, and the Government. The Dartmoor Commoners' Council works to create and enforce rules about the rights of commoners.

Some parts of Dartmoor have been used as military firing ranges for more than 200 years. The public is allowed to access most areas of Dartmoor, though some parts of the firing ranges are restricted. Dartmoor is a popular place for tourists to visit.

Physical geography

Dartmoor contains the largest area of granite in Britain, with about 625 km (241 mi) visible at the surface. However, most of this granite is covered by a layer of peat. The granite, specifically a type called adamellite, was formed deep underground as a large rock mass called a pluton during the Carboniferous period, around 309 million years ago. Scientists believe the current surface of the granite is close to the original top of the pluton. Evidence for this includes pieces of rock called xenoliths, signs of contamination in the granite, and two areas of altered rock found on top of the granite. A strong gravity anomaly is linked to the Dartmoor pluton, like other similar rock masses. Studying this anomaly has helped scientists estimate the shape and size of the rock mass below the surface.

Dartmoor is famous for its tors, which are hills with exposed rock on top. In areas with granite, such as Dartmoor, these rocks often form rounded boulder-like shapes. Over 160 hills on Dartmoor have the word "tor" in their names, but not all hills with rock outcrops are called tors. The tors are the focus of an annual event called the Ten Tors Challenge, where about 2,400 people aged 14 to 19 walk 35, 45, or 55 miles (56, 72, or 89 km) between ten tors on different routes.

The highest points on Dartmoor are located on the northern part of the moor: High Willhays at 621 m (2,037 ft) and Yes Tor at 619 m (2,031 ft). The highest points on the southern moor are Ryder's Hill at 515 m (1,690 ft), Snowdon at 495 m (1,624 ft), and an unnamed point at 493 m (1,617 ft). The most well-known tor is Haytor, also called Hey Tor by William Crossing, located at 457 m (1,499 ft). For a complete list of tors and hills, refer to the List of Dartmoor tors and hills.

The high ground of Dartmoor is the source of water for many rivers in Devon. These rivers have shaped the landscape and historically provided power for industries like tin mining and quarrying.

The moor is named after the River Dart, which begins as the East Dart and West Dart rivers and joins into one river at Dartmeet. The river leaves the moor at Buckfastleigh, flows through Totnes, and eventually reaches the sea at Dartmouth. Other rivers that flow from Dartmoor include the Teign, Taw, Tavy, Avon, and Lyd.

Some rivers on Dartmoor have been dammed to create reservoirs for drinking water, such as the River Avon and the South Teign River (Fernworthy Reservoir).

Dartmoor receives more rainfall than the surrounding lowlands. Much of the national park is covered in thick layers of peat, which is decaying plant material. This peat quickly absorbs rain and releases it slowly, keeping the moor from drying out. In some areas where water collects, dangerous bogs or mires can form. These bogs, covered in bright green moss, are sometimes called "feather beds" or "quakers" by locals because they can shift or "quake" underfoot. Quakers form when sphagnum moss grows over water that pools in hollows in the granite.

The plants found in the bogs depend on the location and type of bog. Blanket bogs, which form on the highest ground where rainfall exceeds 2,000 millimeters (79 inches) per year, are mainly made up of cotton-grass, sedges, Bog Asphodel, and Common Tormentil, with sphagnum moss thriving in the wettest areas. Valley bogs have lush growth of rushes, sphagnum moss, cross-leaved heath, sundews, and other plants.

Some bogs on Dartmoor are well-known. Fox Tor Mires is believed to have inspired the Great Grimpen Mire in Arthur Conan Doyle's novel The Hound of the Baskervilles, though there is a marked path across it. In his book Book of Dartmoor (1900), Sabine Baring-Gould described a story about a man who found a top-hat brim on the surface of Aune Mire near the River Avon. When he kicked it, a voice called out, "What be you a-doin' to my 'at?" The man asked, "Is there a person under it?" The voice replied, "Ees, I reckon, and a horse under me likewise."

Dartmoor is a popular place for local astronomers because it is far from many sources of light pollution. However, in recent years, the use of LED street lights has increased light pollution on the moor.

Climate

Dartmoor, along with the rest of South West England, has a temperate climate that is generally milder than areas at similar heights in other parts of England. At Princetown, located near the center of the moor at an elevation of 453 metres (1,486 ft), January and February are the coldest months, with average minimum temperatures around 1 °C (34 °F). July and August are the warmest months, with average daily maximum temperatures not exceeding 18 °C (64 °F). Compared to Teignmouth, a coastal location about 22 miles (35 km) to the east, Dartmoor has average maximum and minimum temperatures that are 3.0 °C (5.4 °F) and 2.6 °C (4.7 °F) lower, respectively. Frost also occurs at least five times more frequently in Dartmoor than in Teignmouth. On the highest ground in the northern part of the moor, the growing season lasts less than 175 days, which is much shorter than the approximately 300 days along most of the south coast of the county.

Rainfall in Dartmoor is often linked to Atlantic weather systems or to rising air caused by heat from the sun. In summer, heat from the sun can create clouds that bring rain showers and thunderstorms. The wettest months are November and December. On the highest parts of the moor, the average yearly rainfall is over 2,000 millimetres (79 in). This is much higher than the less than 800 millimetres (31 in) recorded in lower areas to the east near the Exe Estuary, which is in the rain shadow of the moor. Due to the influence of the Gulf Stream, snowfall is not common. However, because of its high altitude, Dartmoor is more likely to experience snow than surrounding regions.

According to Met Office data from 1961 to 1990, snow fell on the moor an average of 20 days per year, and hail occurred on more than 40 days annually—among the highest rates in the country. This happens when cold air from the north, which has passed over warm ocean water, is forced to rise over high ground.

When comparing average temperatures at Princetown between 1961 and 2000, the average annual temperature in the decade from 1990 to 2000 was 0.2 °C (0.4 °F) higher than in earlier years. Late winter temperatures also increased by 0.5 °C (0.9 °F) during this period.

Wildlife

Dartmoor is a high area with granite rock, which causes strong winds and acidic soil. These conditions have limited heavy farming, helping to create the unique ecosystems found there. The landscape includes granite covered by peat bogs. While the famous granite rock formations, called tors, are a key part of Dartmoor, only about half of the area is moorland. Other important habitats, such as blanket bogs, upland heaths, and oak woodlands, are also globally significant. Dartmoor is a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) because of four main habitats: Northern Atlantic wet heaths with Erica tetralix, European dry heaths, blanket bogs, and old sessile oak woods with Ilex and Blechnum in the British Isles. The area is also protected because it is home to the southern damselfly, Atlantic salmon, and otters.

Wistman's Wood is an old sessile oak woodland that contributes to Dartmoor's SAC status. It may be a remnant from early Neolithic woodland clearances. The wood has many types of mosses, liverworts, and lichens, including nearly 50 moss and liverwort species and 120 lichen types, such as Smith's horsehair lichen and pendulous wing-moss. Over 60 lichen species grow on granite tors, and some rare lichen species live on rocks affected by mining. On upland heaths, heather and bell heather are common, along with western gorse. Dry grassy areas have tormentil, heath bedstraw, and heath milkwort. Wetter areas support cross-leaved heath and purple moor grass, while boggy areas have sphagnum moss, liverworts, Hare's-tail Cotton-grass, round-leaved sundew, and bog asphodel. Valley bottoms have sedges, bogbean, and pale butterwort.

Dartmoor is home to many bird species, including skylarks and common snipes, which have declined elsewhere in the UK. Rare birds like the ring ouzel and cuckoo also live there. Important bird populations include meadow pipits and stonechats. Woodland birds include migrants such as pied flycatchers and wood warblers. Mammals found here include otters, hazel dormice, and nearly all 16 UK bat species, with three rare bats—barbastelle, greater horseshoe, and lesser horseshoe bats—being especially significant. Rivers in Dartmoor are spawning grounds for salmon and trout, while small pools support palmate newts, frogs, and toads. Two shrimp species live there: fairy shrimp in temporary pools and rare cave shrimp in underground streams. The world's largest land slug, the Ash black, is also found. Reptiles include common lizards and adders. Wet valleys near the moors are important for insects, such as the marsh fritillary butterfly, southern damselfly, narrow-bordered bee hawkmoth, and bog hoverfly. Bracken areas host high brown fritillary and pearl-bordered fritillary butterflies. Heathlands have emperor moths, green hairstreaks, and bilberry bumblebees. Old oak woodlands are home to unique insects, such as the blue ground beetle and Heckford's pygmy moth, which is found nowhere else in the world.

Restoration and climate change mitigation

The South West Peatland Project is working with Dartmoor National Park to restore about 300 hectares of peatland in Dartmoor. Protecting these areas helps reduce climate change by storing carbon from the air. Dartmoor's goal is to become carbon negative by 2045.

History

The most ancient remains found on Dartmoor are from the late Neolithic and early Bronze Age periods. Dartmoor has the greatest number of Bronze Age remains in the United Kingdom, which suggests that more people lived on the hills during this time. Large areas of the lower moors, covering over 10,000 hectares (39 square miles), were farmed using systems of fields divided by stone walls called reaves.

During the Bronze Age, the climate was warmer than it is today, and much of the area was covered in trees. Early settlers cleared the forests to create farmland. They used fire to clear land, forming pastures and areas where crops were grown in a method called fire-fallow farming. Land that was not suitable for farming was burned to provide space for livestock to graze. Over time, these farming practices expanded the upland moors and caused the soil to become more acidic, leading to the growth of peat and bogs.

After many centuries, the climate became colder and wetter. This made the area less habitable, and it remained largely untouched until today. The acidic soil has prevented organic materials, such as bones or wood, from surviving. However, the strong granite rocks have helped preserve buildings, enclosures, and monuments, as well as flint tools. Some remains were restored by Victorian people, who sometimes added their own ideas about how these areas looked in the past.

Many prehistoric structures, such as standing stones, stone circles, kistvaens, cairns, and stone rows, can be found on Dartmoor. Some of the most important sites include:

• Upper Erme stone row, the longest on Dartmoor and in the world, stretching 3,300 meters (10,800 feet).
• Beardown Man, a standing stone near Devil’s Tor, 3.5 meters (11 feet 6 inches) tall, with an estimated 1 meter (3 feet 3 inches) buried underground. Grid reference SX596796.
• Challacombe, a triple stone row near the prehistoric settlement of Grimspound. Grid reference SX689807.
• Drizzlecombe, featuring stone rows, standing stones, kistvaens, and cairns. Grid reference SX591669.
• Grey Wethers, a double stone circle aligned almost exactly north-south. Grid reference SX638831.
• Laughter Tor, a standing stone 2.4 meters (7 feet 10 inches) tall and two double stone rows, one 164 meters (538 feet) long. Grid reference SX652753.
• Merrivale, including a double stone row 182 meters (597 feet) long, stone circles, and a kistvaen. Grid reference SX554747.
• Scorhill, a stone circle 26.8 meters (88 feet) in circumference and stone rows. Grid reference SX654873.
• Shovel Down, a double stone row approximately 120 meters (390 feet) long. Grid reference SX660859.
• Yellowmead Down, a quadruple concentric stone circle and stone rows.

There are also about 5,000 hut circles remaining on Dartmoor, though many have been damaged by the construction of traditional dry stone walls. These are the remains of Bronze Age homes. The smallest hut circles are about 1.8 meters (6 feet) in diameter, and the largest can be up to five times that size. Some have L-shaped porches to protect against wind and rain, with examples found at Grimspound. It is believed these homes had conical roofs made of wood and covered with turf or thatch.

There are also many kistvaens, which are Neolithic stone box-like tombs.

Over a thousand years, starting around 1000 BC, the climate became wetter and cooler, leading to the abandonment of much of high Dartmoor by its early inhabitants.

The weather improved again during the early Medieval period, allowing settlers to return to the moors. They built homes using granite, often in a style called the Dartmoor longhouse. The oldest surviving farms, known as the Ancient Tenements, date back to the 14th century, with some even older. Many longhouses are still used today, though they have been modified over time. Others have been abandoned and are now in ruins.

The town of Princetown, located on Dartmoor, is home to Dartmoor Prison. The prison was originally built by Isbell Rowe & Company, Plymouth, for prisoners of war from the Napoleonic Wars and the War of 1812. It is known for being difficult to escape from, due to its strong construction and remote location.

The Dartmoor landscape shows the work of many generations who lived and worked there, including the remains of the tin-mining industry and abandoned farmhouses. For more information, see the Industrial archaeology of Dartmoor.

Ownership and access

More than half of Dartmoor National Park (57.3%) is private land. The largest part of this private land is the Forest of Dartmoor, which is owned by the Duke of Cornwall. The Ministry of Defence owns 14% of the park, water companies own 3.8%, the National Trust owns 3.7%, the Forestry Commission owns 1.8%, and the Dartmoor National Park Authority owns 1.4%. About 37% of Dartmoor is common land.

Dartmoor differs from some other National Parks in England and Wales because, since the Dartmoor Commons Act 1985, much of the park has been designated as access land. This means the land remains privately owned, but walkers can roam freely without restrictions. In addition to access land, there are about 730 kilometers (450 miles) of public rights of way on Dartmoor, as well as many kilometers of permitted footpaths and bridleways where landowners allow access.

Because of the 1985 Act, Dartmoor was not greatly affected by the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000, which created similar rights in other rural areas. However, in 2006, the 2000 Act opened up much of the remaining restricted land to walkers.

In January 2023, a High Court ruling in a case brought by landowner Alexander Darwall removed the public’s right to wild camp on Dartmoor. The court stated that the 1985 Act does not allow people to pitch tents or camp overnight on Dartmoor Commons without the landowner’s permission. A protest led by local storyteller Martin Shaw occurred in January 2023. The High Court’s decision was overturned by the Court of Appeal on July 31, 2023, allowing wild camping. The Darwalls were granted permission to appeal to the Supreme Court, which upheld the Court of Appeal’s decision to allow wild camping on May 21, 2025.

Dartmoor has a history of military use dating back to the Napoleonic Wars. Today, a large British Army training camp is located at Okehampton, which was also the site of an airbase during World War II.

The Ministry of Defence (MoD) uses three areas in the northern part of the moor for military exercises, covering 108.71 square kilometers (41.97 square miles), or about 11% of the National Park. Red and white posts mark the boundaries of these areas on maps. Red flags on flagpoles near these areas signal when firing is happening. At other times, the public is allowed to access these areas. Blank rounds may also be used during exercises, but the MoD does not inform the public in advance.

Some events, such as the long-standing Ten Tors and the newer Dartmoor Beast, are held with the help of the military.

The Rippon Tor Rifle Range was built during World War II to train soldiers and remained in use until it closed in 1977.

Preservation

Throughout history, people have used natural areas for industry. Recently, companies named Imerys and Sibelco (which was once called Watts Blake Bearne) have mined for china clay on parts of Dartmoor. The British Government gave them permits to do this, but later canceled them after many groups, like the Dartmoor Preservation Association, strongly opposed the activity.

The British Government has promised to protect Dartmoor’s natural condition. However, paying companies for the permits they were given might be very expensive, especially since such permits might not be allowed today.

The military has also caused disagreements. In January 2003, the government decided to increase training activities on the moor. Before this decision, the national park authority received 1,700 objections. People who objected argued that Dartmoor should be a place for recreation, not military use, and that the training disrupted the area’s peaceful nature.

Groups such as the Open Spaces Society and the Dartmoor Preservation Association were among those who opposed the military training. Sylvia Sayer, who lived during this time, was also a strong critic of the damage she believed the army was causing to the moor.

Towns and villages

The Dartmoor National Park area has about 33,000 people living there. This number increases a lot during holidays because many tourists visit. The largest towns in the park include Ashburton (with about 3,500 people), Buckfastleigh, Moretonhampstead, Princetown, Yelverton, Horrabridge, South Brent, Christow, and Chagford. For a complete list, click on the Settlements of Dartmoor box at the bottom of this page.

Landmarks

• Avon Dam Reservoir – a place where people enjoy walking and trout fishing
• Bowerman's Nose – a rock formation that looks like a nose
• Brentor Church – a church located on a high crag at the western edge of the moor
• Buckfast Abbey – an abbey near Buckfastleigh
• Burrator Reservoir – a reservoir built during the late Victorian era
• Canonteign Falls – the second tallest waterfall in England
• Castle Drogo – an Edwardian-style castle built by Edwin Lutyens on a crag above Teign Gorge in Drewsteignton
• Childe's Tomb – an ancient burial site
• Cosdon Hill – a prominent hill at the northern end of the moor, where a beacon was used to warn of invasions
• Cranmere Pool – the original location for a letterbox and the setting of the legend of Cranmere Binjie
• Crazywell Pool – an artificial lake
• Dartmeet – the place where the East and West Dart rivers meet
• Dartmoor Prison – a prison located in the village of Princetown, in the middle of Dartmoor
• Devonport Leat – a man-made water channel
• Duck's Pool – a place with a memorial honoring local writer William Crossing
• Fernworthy Dam & Reservoir – a granite-faced concrete dam and lake located in Fernworthy Forest near Chagford
• Fingle Bridge – a 17th-century

In myths and popular culture

Dartmoor is famous for its many ancient myths and legends. It is said to be the home of pixies, a headless horseman, a mysterious group of ghostly dogs, and a large black dog, among other stories. During the Great Thunderstorm of 1638, the moorland village of Widecombe-in-the-Moor was reportedly visited by the Devil.

In addition to general myths, some specific places on Dartmoor have ghost stories connected to them. For example, the ancient burial site of Childe's Tomb, the rock pile known as Bowerman's Nose, the stone crosses that marked old medieval paths across the moor, and the site called Jay's Grave, which is said to be haunted. In recent years, other stories have appeared, such as the "hairy hands," which are claimed to attack drivers on the B3212 near Two Bridges, and the "Beast of Dartmoor," a large cat that some people believe exists.

In 1820, the newly created Royal Society of Literature offered a prize for a poem about Dartmoor. This prize was won by Felicia Hemans. This location has also inspired many artists and writers, including Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in The Hound of the Baskervilles and The Adventure of Silver Blaze, R. D. Blackmore, Eden Phillpotts, Beatrice Chase, Agatha Christie, Rosamunde Pilcher, Gilbert Adair, the Reverend Sabine Baring-Gould, and Bertram Fletcher Robinson.

The Old Dark House is a 1963 comedy horror film directed by William Castle for Hammer Film Productions. It is a remake of Universal's 1932 film of the same name, directed by James Whale. Both films are based on the 1927 novel by J. B. Priestley, originally published under the name Benighted. The 1963 film starred Tom Poston, Robert Morley, Janette Scott, Joyce Grenfell, and Fenella Fielding. It is mainly set on Dartmoor.

Dartmoor is also featured in many award-winning films, television shows, and video games. For example, in the 2005 film Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, the fictional 1994 Quidditch World Cup final between Ireland and Bulgaria is held there. In 2010, Ditsworthy Warren House near Sheepstor was used as a filming location for the Steven Spielberg film War Horse. In 2012, the BBC released The Hounds of Baskerville, an episode of the TV series Sherlock, which includes a fictional animal testing center in Dartmoor named "Baskerville." In 2021, the video game Hitman 3 was released, and it features a mansion located on Dartmoor.

Leisure activities

Until the early 1800s, Dartmoor was not seen as a place worth visiting. In the 1540s, John Leland wrote in his book that "Dartmore is muche a wilde Morish and forest Ground," and by 1789, Richard Gough described it as a "dreary mountainous tract." At the start of the 19th century, John Swete was among the first people to visit Dartmoor for enjoyment. His journals and watercolor paintings now serve as important historical records.

The oldest leisure activity on the moor is hill walking. William Crossing’s book, Guide to Dartmoor, was published in 1909. In 1938, a plaque and letterbox in his honor were placed at Duck’s Pool on the southern moor. Parts of the Abbots Way, Two Moors Way, and the Templer Way are located on Dartmoor.

Letterboxing began on Dartmoor in the 19th century and has grown more popular in recent years. Waterproof containers, called "letterboxes," are hidden across the moor. Each box contains a visitor’s book and a rubber stamp. Visitors take a stamp impression as proof of finding the box and record their visit by stamping their own mark in the logbook. A newer activity, geocaching, uses GPS coordinates for clues, while letterboxing often uses grid references and compass directions.

Whitewater kayaking and canoeing are popular on Dartmoor’s rivers because of the high rainfall and clean water. However, access is limited to winter months for environmental protection. The River Dart is the main meeting place, with the Loop section being especially popular. Other rivers with whitewater include the Erme, Tavy, Plym, and Meavy.

Other activities include rock climbing on granite tors, such as Haytor, Hound Tor, and The Dewerstone; horse riding on common land; cycling (not on open moorland); and fishing for wild brown trout, sea trout, and salmon. Much of the river fishing is privately owned, but permits are available for some areas.

The main visitor center is in Princetown and includes exhibits about Dartmoor’s history, culture, and wildlife, as well as displays of local art. Visitor centers in Postbridge and Haytor offer information, maps, guidebooks, and items for exploring the area.

Transport

Dartmoor has the following bus services available:

• Bus route 359 connects Moretonhampstead to Exeter and is operated by Country Bus.
• Bus route 271 travels from Newton Abbot to Bovey Tracey to Widecombe and runs only on summer Saturdays, operated by Country Bus.
• Bus route 173 links Moretonhampstead to Chagford to Exeter and is operated by Stagecoach.
• Bus route 178 travels from Newton Abbot to Bovey Tracey to Moretonhampstead to Chagford to Okehampton and is operated by Country Bus.
• Bus route 98 connects Tavistock to Princetown to Postbridge and is operated by Oakleys.

Other bus services also operate in Dartmoor, but they are less frequent.

GWR provides direct train service from Exeter to Okehampton.