Tsavo West National Park is located in Taita-Taveta County, Kenya. The park covers an area of 9,065 km (3,500 square miles). The A109 road between Nairobi and Mombasa, along with a railway, separates it from the nearby Tsavo East National Park. Together with nearby ranches and protected areas, they form the Tsavo Conservation Area. Tsavo West is a more popular destination because of its beautiful scenery, the Mzima Springs, a wide variety of wildlife, well-maintained roads, a rhino reserve, opportunities for rock climbing, and guided walks along the Tsavo River. The park is operated by Kenya Wildlife Service.
Archaeology and history
Although some Early Stone Age and Middle Stone Age archaeological sites have been found in Tsavo through surface discoveries, there is strong evidence of a successful Late Stone Age economy between 6,000 and 1,300 years ago. Research shows that many Late Stone Age sites are located near the Galana River. People living in these areas hunted wild animals, fished, and raised domesticated animals. Because water was scarce far from the Galana River, human settlements in Tsavo were mostly near rivers and in rock shelters as one moves west.
Swahili merchants traded with Tsavo’s inhabitants for ivory, catskins, and possibly slaves as early as 700 CE (and likely earlier). There is no evidence that Swahili people directly controlled Tsavo. Instead, trade likely occurred through family connections that moved goods between Tsavo and the Swahili Coast. Items like cowry shells and beads have been found at archaeological sites from the early Swahili period.
In the 19th century, British and German explorers recorded people now known as Orma and Waata during their travels through the "nyika" region. They often described these groups as hostile to their goals. Starting in the late 19th century, the British began colonizing Kenya’s interior and built the Uganda Railway through Tsavo in 1898. During the railway’s construction, two maneless male lions killed at least 28 Indian and African workers, though some reports suggest up to 135 victims. These lions, called "the Maneaters of Tsavo," were eventually killed by the bridge supervisor, Lt.-Col. John Henry Patterson, who later wrote a book about the experience titled The Man-eaters of Tsavo (1907). The lions’ skins and skulls are now displayed at the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago.
Tsavo remained the home of the Orma and Maasai pastoralists and Waata hunter-gatherers until 1948, when it was declared a national park. At that time, the local people were relocated to areas such as Voi, Mtito Andei, and the nearby Taita Hills. After Kenya gained independence in 1963, hunting was banned in the park, and management was transferred to the organization that became the Kenya Wildlife Service. Today, Tsavo attracts visitors from around the world who come to experience its wide open spaces and unique landscapes.
Rock climbing
In 1978, Bill Woodley, who was the warden of Tsavo West at that time, invited the Mountain Club of Kenya (MCK) to explore the cliffs in the park. The area is excellent for climbing, with elephants walking across the plains below the cliffs. Eagles, vultures, and falcons fly around the rocks on warm air currents, and Mount Kilimanjaro is often visible on clear days. The rock climbing in this area is some of the best in Kenya. Strong gneiss rock walls are often covered with holds and have little vegetation. There are many cracks and corners, but these areas tend to have more plants. The most impressive rock is the 300-meter (980-foot)-high east face of Kichwa Tembo. This area attracted the first climbers and led to the completion of the Great Tsavo Chimney route. The Mastodon route took three attempts to finish. A more recent route, Ivory Tower on Elephant Rocks, is considered one of the best and hardest climbs in Kenya. Usually, climbers do not need to carry pegs. If climbing in sunny areas, starting early is recommended because it often becomes very hot on clear days.
The permit that allows the MCK to climb here and camp near the Tsavo River is a special privilege. People should avoid actions that could cause problems for this opportunity. Other climbers who want to climb in this area should first contact the MCK.
Wildlife
Tsavo West National Park is home to many different types of animals. Large animals found in the park include the eastern black rhinoceros, hippopotamus, Cape buffalo, elephant, leopard, and lion. Smaller animals that can be seen in the park include the bushbaby, hartebeest, lesser kudu, and Masai giraffe.
The "Waterman of Tsavo"
Patrick Kilonzo Mwalua is a well-known name among conservationists in Tsavo West National Park. He was a farmer from Kajire village in Taita Taveta who started helping after seeing how climate change was drying up his village and making it hard for animals to find water. In 2016, he rented a large water truck and began bringing clean water to wildlife in Tsavo West National Park, which is hundreds of kilometers from his home, up to four times each day.
The animals, such as buffaloes and elephants, became friendly with him and would wait near the watering holes for him to arrive. His care for wildlife earned him praise and a Head of State Commendation award in 2018, which was given to him by President Uhuru Kenyatta.
He passed away in June 2024 after fighting a kidney failure condition for some time.